Bishop's ANH Tusken Build

[bishopdonmiguel]

15 minutes ago, Nezhdanov said:

Not a big deal but just thought I’d mention there is part of the crl that states ‘head wraps are not unkempt and do not hang loosely over the neck or shoulders’. 

Thanks for the feedback. Appreciated!

As for those longer wraps, again you have a good eye. Those are temporarily “unkempt” because I need to try the mask on with the robes to ensure my neck is hidden. These will all get added to and cleaned up but thank you for the heads up on a possible CRL violation.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 1.

I purchased a pair of WD-40 cans based on my recollection of what other builders used for this accessory. After emptying the cans, the size just didn’t seem right to my eye. Perhaps there were smaller cans that I missed. After looking through my spray can collection, I felt the small Testors rattles were about right in size.

 

[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 2.

The screen reference I’m using shows minimal detail on the ends of this part. So I will be cutting these spray cans and reconfiguring the parts.

First step is to remove the ends using an angle grinder (after completely emptying). If you ever wondered what the “rattle” in these cans are made of, it’s a glass marble. Surprised, I kinda expected a metal ball.

I turned the concave bottom over and brazed it onto the top of the can to create a convex end. Not sure the brazing material is compatible with the can but it’s holding. I will reinforce later.

Lastly, I cut the halves down to the approximate size I think is required.

Next step is to design and print some 3D parts to assemble the halves.

Edited August 30, 2021 by bishopdonmiguel

[Nezhdanov]

Good spot! Your instincts were correct to consider the proportions in regards to the head.

The crl does have a size for this - neck breather resembles a small cylinder 3” to 4” (7.62cm - 10.16) in length, approximately 2” (5.08 cm) in diameter, with tapered caps on either end connecting to a tube which runs behind the neck. Breather has knurled end caps and flare nuts on each end.

Larger cans used in the breathers have been cleared in the past, some garrisons when reviewing will question costume elements more than others. I’m sure you’ll make a good job of the breather so it will be good to see when completed!

Just for reference, I think this may have been the kind of can used

[bishopdonmiguel]

53 minutes ago, Nezhdanov said:

Just for reference, I think this may have been the kind of can used

That looks spot-on, or extremely close. Very interesting!

[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 3.

Because I’m concerned with the bond of the brazing rod on these cans, I reinforced the interior with some construction adhesive. That should keep the lids on.

The first 3D part will hold the halves together. I added a bump in the middle that will hopefully create a slight raised area under the leather wrap. A final sanding of the can edge provides a nice tight fit.

For the ends, I wanted to mimic those rounded edges so I designed a pair of thin rings. Once these are glued on an butted against the leather, I hope they blend in well.

Lastly, I designed a “cap” that accommodates the brass flare. A retention ring on the inside of the can should hold this is place.

I don’t want to glue everything together until I get the aluminum rod sized and shaped so I’m setting these aside for the moment.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 4.

Parts assembled and painted.

I want an aged look so I layered a few metallic colors, misted a bit of black, clear coated in satin to reduce the shine then weathered using acrylics.

 

[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 5.

I’m going to install the rod opposite of most the builds that I have reviewed. I’ll be passing the rod through the can then determining the desired length and joining the ends together by brazing.

Because the aluminum rod is very difficult to bend, I will anneal it using a blow torch. To do this, you heat the metal which realigns the crystals and causes it to be more malleable. The temperature is important, you don’t want to melt it. Welding stores sell marking pencils that will burn off when a certain temperature is reached. You can approximate this using candle soot. Pass the aluminum over a candle flame until a visible layer of soot is present.

Using a blow torch, heat the rod evenly in 6” sections until the black soot disappears. When the soot is gone, let the aluminum cool for 30-60 seconds then dip in a water bath. It had recently rained here so I used a water pool in the asphalt.

Now the aluminum can be easily bent by hand.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 6.

Because the can contains some 3D parts, I was concerned it would not be strong enough to offset the force used in bending. I clamped the flare nuts in a vice then bent the aluminum.

I prepared a piece of leather wrap for the center. The material I had on-hand wasn’t thin enough so I used a belt sander to thin it enough so the 3D printed seam would show through.

Using contact cement, I wrapped the leather around the can and then weathered with some dark brown Fullers Earth.

The last step will be to determine where to join the ends but I need to get suited up for doing that so I will hold off on this step for now.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Eye Screen.

One of the last remaining bits on the helmet is to place some screen behind the Eye Stalks. I used this nylon fabric behind my TK "teeth" and it worked well stacking 6 layers. Because I need to see out of this, I will only stack 4 layers.

I designed and printed a 3D screen holder that will attach to the interior eye collar. I also cut a vinyl stencil as sizing guide for the screen and sewed the layer together. You don't need to go crazy here, just enough of a zig-zag stitch to hold everything together.

I cut and glued the screen to the rings using E-6000 and let cure for a few hours. I then lightly glued the ring to the eye collar using E-6000 so as to be removable should the screen ever need replacement.

[Nezhdanov]

You’ve found some good ways round some problems. The solution to bending the aluminium could be helpful! I can say manually bending and manipulating three aluminium rods to make three different sized breathers can be a little taxing on the hands [emoji16]

Interesting idea for a mount to house the gauze to conceal the eyes too. More people have 3D printers these days so your approach to some elements of the build could help others.

I like the look of the breather and will be good to see it with the rest of the costume. The challenge will be making it so it will go over your head but not hang down too low. I’m sure you’ll get it sorted [emoji1303]


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[bishopdonmiguel]

Neck Breather, part 7.

Had some time today to wrap up this piece.

After shaping and determining the final length, I used a Dremel to cut the ends roughly in the center of where it will sit on the back of the neck. Because I used 3D parts in the build, I was concerned that heat might transfer down the rod during brazing and melt the parts. To prevent this, I clamped Vise Grips near the brazing point to act as heat sinks and also let the rod behind these sit in a water bath. This worked well and there was no heat damage to the can.

After a little sanding and weathering, this piece is finished.

 

[bishopdonmiguel]

Weathering the Bandoliers.

Following the advice of other builders, I wiped the bandoliers with acetone to remove the protective finish. I then proceeded to beat these up with a hammer, scratched them along on the pavement, soaked in water and squished them to flatten them as best I could.

After they dried, I applied some mink oil to condition and protect the leather.

Trying these on I felt the UK Boer needed to hang lower so I created a 12” extension.

Edited September 19, 2021 by bishopdonmiguel

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 1.

To construct these, I generally followed the process documented by @Arcturus1020.  I did make some design changes in the template to better suit my style. In hindsight, I would probably make the pouches 1/2” or so less wide but these should do fine.

A trip to Tandy Leather to acquire materials then traced the pattern for 7 pouches. I will be using the “waste” in the middle cut in half lengthwise to construct the belt loops.

Edited September 19, 2021 by bishopdonmiguel

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 2.

I cut a form from an excess piece of 1” select pine. This will shape the leather and provide a solid surface for punching rivets.

To shape the cut patterns, I wet the leather with water and tightly wrapped around the form and affixed with clamps. Be sure to protect the leather with something. Here I used some scrap pieces of ABS sheet.

I let the leather sit in the clamps for about 20 minutes and then shaped the next piece. After finishing the last one, I let these dry overnight.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 3.

While the leather was drying, I cut some vinyl templates and attached to ABS sheet to mark the location for rivet holes. I also created a template for the flap. I didn’t want to precut the flap as I was concerned the spacing might vary after forming the wet leather.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 4.

After the leather dried, I punched the holes then dyed using Fiebing’s “Saddle Tan.” I let these dry overnight.

I’m going to make a 1-1/4” belt so the loops here are designed accordingly. I applied contact cement (good sides together) and then riveted the top. Followed this with more cement and a bottom rivet.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 5.

To close the pouches, load the rivet stem into the holes, inset the form and wrap the edges. Apply contact cement and affix the pieces ensuring the holes align with the rivet stems. Insert a thin metal sheet between the leather and the rivets then set the rivets using a hammer. The metal is necessary to provide a solid surface for setting. I used a metal square.

It is helpful to have a removable screw in the form to help pull it out of the closed pouch.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 6.

Time to cut the flaps. For every pouch, I made sure the hole for the Sam Bowne stud was located the same distance from the bottom edge. This will ensure all the flaps look the same. Traced the pattern then cut.

Attaching the studs is straightforward, just be sure to reinforce the backside with that piece of metal before setting with a hammer.

Cut a small slit on each side of the flap hole and the pouch is finished.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Waist Belt and Pouches, part 7.

I won’t document the belt construction as it is very simple. Just cowhide, a buckle and a couple rivets. I did add a pattern to the belt using various tools. No one will see this but I will know it’s there. Dyed with same “Saddle Tan” as pouches.

With components finished, I weathered and distressed the pouches then applied mink oil to everything.

Glad to have these finished.

Edited September 19, 2021 by bishopdonmiguel

[Nezhdanov]

Looking good [emoji1303] like the weathering. Always helpful to have a detailed construction process that others can follow!


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[fleasome]

Looks good Bishop.  I may have to do that whole process to replace the ones I bought 3 years ago that I don't like.

[navarre1095]

[bishopdonmiguel]

Gaffi, part 1.

I know the iconic “Diamond” gaffi is the most popular choice but I find the “rifle stock” version more interesting. I was originally going to use a hardwood of some sort but, as I only have basic hand tools to work with, I decided to use pine from the local hardware store.

Using the grid layout I found somewhere in these forums, I printed at full scale and assembled with tape. I think a length of 45” and a thickness of 1-1/2” seems about right. While a 2x12 would work, I only need a 4’ long piece and the shortest piece they sell is 8’. Not wanting to waste more wood than necessary, I opted to cut a piece of 1x12x8 “whitewood” board in half and glue together. Yes, you can use a piece of wood less than 12” wide by placing the template at an angle BUT I wanted the grain to run with the relatively thin shaft for strength. Crossing grain here could cause cracking.

After cutting the board in half, I affixed the full size printed template to one side using staples and clamped the pieces together. I then roughly cut the pattern with a jig saw leaving a 3” boarder to accommodate some screws. Once the excess wood was removed, I applied glue, clamped and screwed the pieces together then set aside to dry overnight.

[bishopdonmiguel]

Gaffi, part 2.

After the glue set, I cut out the final shape with a jig saw and lightly rounded the edges to get a feel for the shape and weight. Seemed heavy to me and I wanted to reduce the weight.

From what I’ve seen of other builds, the “stock” end is often left thick. I gave this a lot of consideration and concluded if this were a real weapon, the stock end might be more versatile as cutting surface, otherwise, combined with the mace head you’d just have two blunt force tools. In my mind, this also fits in with the likely use of the original item as a neck breaker.

Using a hand planer and rasp tools, I shaped the wood into the desired gaffi shape then sanded using 80, 120 and 220 grit paper. I wanted to add some “tribal” engravings to the blade end and found some leather embossing tools that worked to my satisfaction.

Two coats of stain and this is ready for polyurethane. To finish, I need to make a trip to the metal supply for the rod and design a mace head. Currently planning to mold and cast in rubber. We will see how that goes.