wingnut65 Posted April 11, 2015 Author Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) Thanks, guys. But, we aint done yet... Note: This build is also posted in the Tusken Raider Accessories section to make it easier to find when searching. If you saw it there, then this may be just another re-run episode... Making A Neck Breather Whether it is called a 'Neck Breather', a 'Moisture Collector' or even a St Bernard's Barrel, we all have to have one if we are going to be an ANH Tusken. How does this one look? 186 187 Compare it to the hero version... Notice that the leather wrap comes over the top with the flap exposed, facing downward! My GML says that if I send in this picture with my photos, that he would have no problem accepting the exposed edge facing down. 001 Here's my breather, some assembly required... The spray paint can was a consideration if the Reddi Wip cans didn't work, but they did. Teraxis made his using cans similar to that spray can. 188 But first, we interrupt this breather project with a Public Service Announcement... BIG TIP: When you save something that may be useful in any build project, any unique greeblies, objects, caps, anything... REMEMBER WHERE YOU FOUND IT! Write it down, take a picture, write it on a piece of tape, in a notebook, anything... Do it so you can find it again if you ever need to! I'll explain... And now, back to our regularly scheduled build... When I saw this can in the fridge, I realized it had a perfect dome shape and I just had to give it a try! My family was using a number of cans of Reddi Wip dairy whipped topping over the holidays on pumpkin pies and anything else they could find. I saved each can that got finished until I was ready to start this project. I measured somewhere around the inside of the can top and transferred it to the can. I pressed the tip to make sure all the pressure was out of the can before attempting to cut into it! 189 Using my Dremel with a metal cut-off blade, I cut around the whole can. Ughhhh! That stinks like 3-month old spoiled milk! And it is all over my hands and workbench!! 190 TIP #2: When you finish a can, take the plastic nozzle off and push the little plastic tip all the way into the can. Then you can wash the can out so it doesn't spoil! Don't wait three months like I did!!! Ughhhh! That Smell!!!! Nope! I don't like the fit. I guess I should have taken a more accurate measurement. And, hope we have another can if Reddi Wip that I can use... 191 Let's try this again... Measure twice, cut twice... Oh well... 192 Much better! After cutting, I made sure all the edges were sanded down to remove any sharp edges. 193 To get these orange caps to fit perfectly, I had to remove the threads inside it using the Dremel. 194 On to the tin can... The smooth-cut can opener I have does not like the small tomato paste can! 195 Back to the store to buy another can! This time I picked up the economy brand of tomato paste for only 75¢, instead of the $1.00 one. With the second can in hand, let's get back to work. I also hit Ace Hardware and picked up a couple 1/4" Short Flare Nuts and a 1/2" by 48" aluminum rod (6.4 x 1220 mm) 196 This time, I decided to cut the can on the side instead of destroying another one from the top. Once open, all the contents were washed out of the can and discarded. TIP #3: If you cut the can like this, cut one side at an angle so it will be easier to figure out which way to put it back. I cut mine perfectly square and it took a close eye to make sure all the ridges lined up correctly when I put it back on. 197 Oops! What is wrong with that cap?? One cap is perfect and the other was stripped when the machine was getting put on at the factory! Now, where did I get those caps????????? 198 Public Service Announcement Background Info... This is where the idea of remembering where you found things comes in... Since I knew I would be building this breather, I've been saving knurled bottle caps for a while, grabbing them before they go in the recycling can. But, I had only saved two of these caps and could not find another one at home. I brought the bad cap with me to our Publix grocery store and went straight to the orange juice display. No match. Off to the gallon jugs of Iced Tea. Not even close. Dairy case? Nothing. I walked around a while with no luck and end up heading home empty handed. Maybe we got it at Target or Wally World... Next day, my wife needed to go grocery shopping and I wanted to search again. 3/4 of the way through the store with no luck, we hit the laundry soap aisle. She needed another bottle of "Shout" Stain Spray off the top shelf and looky what I found!!! A perfect match! I went through all the bottles on the shelf to find the only bottle with a perfect cap. (I screwed the bad one back on this new bottle...) So, this is why I make a Public Service Announcement - "MAKE NOTES OF WHERE YOU FIND THINGS!" 199 Yep, a perfect match! 200 Now, let's find the center and drill those holes... I used a center finder to locate the centers of the caps and the can. I started with a center punch, then a small drill bit and worked up to 1/4" (6.4 mm) 201 I used a step drill bit for the plastic caps. The Imperial Issue Blue Binding Material was used to tell this dummy when to stop drilling. This hole was sized for the brass flare nut to sit flush to the cap. Mine needed 9/16" (14.5 mm) 202 I found it easier to drill the domed can ends from the inside. I drilled these and both ends of the can with 1/4" (6.4 mm) so the aluminum rod will go through both. 203 When all drilling was done, I used super glue to mount the dome ends to the tin can. TIP #4: When you set the dome on the can, twist it to rotate it around so the super glue will spread evenly around the whole lid. I didn't and had a couple small gaps I had to fill in after they came to life after I painted the can, 204 I pushed the cap and brass nut on to the dome to paint it as one piece. I should have painted them separately to make sure the dome gets full coverage. 205 The CRL states "Some references show a single small ridge (approximately 1/4" wide and 1/8" high) (~6.4 x 3.2 mm) running around the center of the cylinder". I have a couple spools of shoe lace material that I wanted to try. It is actually 3/16" wide (4.8 mm), but that meets the 'approximate' dimensions. Here I am testing to see if two layers on the left, or one layer on the right looks better. I went with one layer! 206 Oops. Hit a picture limit.. Hold On... Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links 1 Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 11, 2015 Author Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) And, we are back... Making A Neck Breather - Continued... Next step was the aluminum rod. I made a mock-up using some rigid Romex electrical wire to determine the length I would need. I decided on a 30" piece (760 mm) was all that I needed to wrap around my neck and still have enough to bend and insert into the breather. I used a pair of pliers with rubber jaw covers and bent each end around the handle of my hydraulic car jack. The handle is about 1.25" diameter (32 mm) 207 Then I bent the other end, careful to make sure they were facing the same direction and not twisted. 208 I didn't want to try making the big bend using my neck, so I found the only thing in my garage that had the right size curve, a vintage Craftsman bench-top drill press. I covered it with a rag to prevent scratching the paint. 209 Then I bent one side the same way... 210 ... and then bent the other side to match. 211 Once the rod was formed, I used the rubber pliers to un-bend the ends until they were aligned, and directly facing each other. This is critical so that the rod doesn't put uneven pressures on the breather and trying to twist it apart 212 Back to the can... I glued little strips of plastic just inside the opening and then glued the whole piece back in place. With the vinyl wrap, this is all I needed to do to it. This also shows the single layer of shoe lace material hot-glued in place. You can see where Tip #3, having an odd shaped opening, would have been easier to align the piece when putting it back on. 213 I used E600 to glue the vinyl to the can 214 To knock the sheen off the vinyl, I used some Testors Dull Cote spray paint, followed by some craft paint dry brushed for weathering using a rust colored paint. Any 'Flat Clear' paint should work. 215 The Boss said it needed a little more weathering, so I hit it some more with dark brown and black. 216 How does this look? 217 218 219 I had not thought about it before teraxis started his breather build thread, but I agree that other members may be interested in the cost of this hobby and the cost of these small projects. Like Chris, I am also working a tight budget and have been trying to be creative and as thrifty as possible. Let's see how I did... First can of tomato paste $ 1.00 Second can of tomato paste $ 0.75 Two flare nuts at $2.50 each $ 5.00 Aluminum Rod $ 5.00 Total invested in the breather $11.75 plus tax, This is not counting the 'Reddi Wip' cans and 'Shout' bottle caps that we use in our house and I salvaged from recycling. Next Up, What Dyed Around Here?? Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 Photo links Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) What Dyed Around Here? Well, that would be the robes. We are on the last few steps before submitting, so here goes. My mom has been sewing for many more years than I have been a part of the family. She is in her eighty's and still is an avid quilter. When she accepted our invitation to come to our house for Christmas, I had to research and make decisions on the robes and fabric, buy the fabric, wash it, dry it, cut it out and have her sew it. All in a couple days that she stayed with us before leaving for New Years. I borrowed a spare sewing machine from a close friend from church (also my back-up if mom couldn't finish it all...) Inner Robe - I decided to use Osnaburg fabric and the Studio Creation pattern (Found Here). I purchased 4.5 Yards of fabric at $5.99/yard with a 50% off coupon at Jo-Ann's. Mom taught me about folding the edges over and pinning to hem the fabric get a clean edge. I might need that on future projects! 220 There is a lot of fabric to keep straight. Nothing better than working on the kitchen table! 221 I used newspaper to create a hole I could fit my head through and then cut the neck out. We finished with another hemmed edge. 222 EDIT: MAKE A SMALLER HOLE! I should have made a smaller hole, just for my neck and add a slit down the back with snaps. I have had to add bra hooks on the back of the neck to close the opening size. See how much I have exposed below Not too bad for the first fit. Mom was worried about the robe being too long, but I didn't want to cut the length until I had my boots finished, which they are now. (Mental note: Inner Robe is lightweight fabric and an orange shirt is very visible through it! I wear a Tan T-shirt under the robes so it all blends in) 223 I made the hand openings only 6" (152 mm) wide, but I need it bigger . The arm wraps make it very tight around the wrists. I found it easier to put the arm bands on before putting on the robe. I will be going back and un-sewing the arms to make the opening larger. (I changed to 8" arm openings before I was finished) Outer Robe - I went with Monk's Cloth and TK409's outer robe pattern. JoAnn's did not have enough Monk's Cloth left on their last bolt, so I ended up getting 6.5 yards at Wal-Mart at $7.97/yard with no coupon. (Ouch!) If I had time, I would have waited for JoAnn's to get it in and use a coupon, but mom was only in town a couple more days. 225 Mom got all the sewing done and both robes got put away for a couple months while I continued on the mask and other parts. Unfortunately, I did not get any shots of the outer robe before it got dyed. Mom also sewed a zig-zag stitch about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom edge to keep the robe from fraying apart forever. Inner Robe Dyeing 101 I started with the inner robe, a pot of water and the least expensive box of 100 tea bags. I found that the 'tagless tea bags' were the most reasonable - no tag and not wrapper = less cost. 226 RaiderNick mentioned using 80 tea bags, so that is where I started and it worked perfectly. I didn't think that only one 8 quart pot (7.5 liter) of water would be enough, so I brewed another pot. I moved the same 80 tea bags to the second pot, hoping that there was still enough flavor in the bags to brew another pot. If not, I still had 20 new bag still in the box. 227 I used a strainer to see how dark the first batch of brew came out. Not bad! 228 I let the second pot steep and it turned out perfect while only using the original 80 tea bags. Impressive! 229 This is all that it took to dye my inner robe - 2 cooking pots, 4 Gallons (15 Liters) of tea made from 80 tea bags and some salt. I forgot to mention that I added some salt to the brew. I've read that the salt will help make the dying more permanent. Only time will tell... 230 I put the inner robe in a plastic storage bin and covered it with the two pots of tea. This shot was to compare it to my mask colors, but of course it would look darker while it is still a little damp! 231 I let the robe soak for 30 minutes then washed it out in clean water, let it dry and this is the result. Not sure if it is too dark or not, but we will have to wait to see. The waist band is the same fabric for a comparison of before and after. The sleeve is damp from an attempt to spray some tan dye on it to weather it. Didn't work! 232 On to the Outer Robe! I used what appears to be the standard Tusken mix, keeping a 2:1 ratio by using one whole bottle of RIT's "Tan" and a half bottle of "Pearl Gray". Each were $3.99 at JoAnn's, but of course, I had 50% off coupons!!! So, only $1.99 each! The instructions on the bottle say to add the wet fabric to the dye mix. So, in the kitchen sink it went to get wet. I rung out as much as I could so it would still be damp. 233 Here is the outer robe floating in about 4 gallons of water/dye mix. I kept pushing it down in the water to make sure all areas were covered evenly. 234 After about 45 minute soak (1143 mm), it came out and hung up to drip dry. It looked a little splotchy when damp, but after it dried, it was fine. 235 Here are the final colors. The outer looks a little red to me, but that is what my bottles of Tan and Pearl Gray gave me. Maybe I should have added a little more Gray. Oh, well. This is what I will submit for approval, after it is weathered. 236 Almost done! Now to hit the neck wrap and waist sash... Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 Photo links Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) Almost Done... Neck Wrap I started with a piece of Osnaburg about 5" by 24" (127 x 610 mm), big enough to wrap loosely around my neck with space for Velcro. I used some left over arm/mask wraps and started layering them on using hot glue. TIP: When the wraps are glued on to the backer fabric, it becomes a little stiffer. Try the neck wrap on now and cut it so it feels comfortable. I didn't do this and now I'm not sure I like how high it comes under my ears and the back of my neck. It is a little uncomfortable. It doesn't need to be as tall over the shoulders as it does in the front and probably in the back. I may be modifying mine. EDIT: I have left it as it was. I'm use to it by now 237 It only needed four wraps to cover mine. I added Velcro strips to the ends. I will be sewing these to the fabric because I don't trust the durability of the factory adhesive on fabric. EDIT: Sewing the Velcro didn't work with the sewing machine as the thread would get stuck on the glue and pull out of the needle. I ended up gluing the strips with super glue to the neck wrap. Use sew-on Velcro with no adhesive if you want to use a sewing machine! 238 Not too bad! You can see how rigid it is with all that hot glue holding it together. EDIT: Through time and use, it isn't this rigid anymore! 239 Last step for the neck wrap is to weather it! Just wait till you see the rest... 240 Waist Sash I used some spare Osnaburg fabric for the waist sash as well. I had my mom sew a hem around the edges to make it 6" wide (150 mm) and about 2" (50 mm) less than my waist size (See TIP 2, Below). The CRL states that "Knotting is acceptable if an outer robe is worn, if no outer robe is worn then the sash is laced." I think this is what is meant by "laced". TIP 1: Dye your waist sash before mounting the grommets. While letting mine soak, they started to rust, but then again, that just adds more to the theme of the costume! TIP 2: The sash will bunch up when worn. Eventually, I will be making one between 8-9" (200-230 mm) so when worn and bunched up, it will be about 6" (150 mm) wide. Currently, mine bunches up to about 4" wide (100 mm) 241 I had an old container of grommet eyelets in various colors. I decided to go with Black and had to experiment a little on a scrap piece to make sure it would work through the hem with several layers of fabric. 242 At JoAnn's, I found a roll of "Natural Jute Cord", 3-Ply, 28lb. strength for only $2.99, PLUS my favorite 50% off coupon! 243 To finish the ends of the cord, I used a small piece of heat-shrink tubing on each end. 244 This concludes my project build! I appreciate all your time to come visit and read through pages of notes and pictures. Now, Go Forth And Build!! I am done with my costume build. Now all I need are the bandoliers and then take pictures and pray for approval from the powers that be! The Gaffi will be coming sometime, but it is not required for approval. Wish me luck! Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links Quote
mutter Posted April 22, 2015 Posted April 22, 2015 Outstanding job! A build thread that will be referenced by many, including myself. 1 Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) So, I didn't fool ya, did I? This build ain't done yet! I'm about 90" complete with about 25% more to go... The journey isn't over, but the train is nearing the station... OK, on to the fun part - Weathering! Please keep your seat belts fastened until this ride come to a complete stop! Weathering The Robes! Attempt 1: While I still had my big storage bin full of Tan and Pearl Gray outer robe fabric dye, I filled a small spray bottle and went to work hitting the bottom and the arms of both robes. It worked well on the fabric, even after I rinsed it out after dyeing it. I figured this time it would be straight dye on the fabric with no rinse cycle... But, after it all dried, nothing was visible. I tried it twice and nothing! I think this picture is after two attempts at using the fabric dye in a spray bottle and there is only a slight change in color at the bottom edge. 236 It could be that the dye was two days old by this time... Does it go stale? Attempt 2: For my next act, I tried using some water-based craft paints that I had, mixed with water in a spray bottle and sprayed on the fabric in random patterns. I used three different paint colors - Dark Brown, Rust and Black, to give it a layered look. 240 Since it was watered down paint, the fabric got wet and had to dry before any weathering would show. Here is the back of the outer robe, while it is still wet... 245 ... and when weathering was all finished. Does it need more dirt and grime? 246 The front of the inner robe while it is still wet... 247 ... and the front when it was finished. The waist sash shows what the original robe color was. 248 Here is the back of the inner robe. 249 Here is how they look together. Yes, I need to trim the bottom of the inner robe and fray both of them to look really trashed and work. I didn't mention before, but the arm openings in the outer robe is about 8" (200 mm). (Ignore the bumps on the shoulders, my dowel rods were starting to show. How embarrassing?) 250 The outer robe actually looks more orange above with the camera flash, but with only having the daylight bulbs on in my garage, it is less orange. I guess I need to get some exterior pictures in the sunlight. That will be coming soon! 251 Weathering Everything Else! I used the same three watered down paint colors -Dark Brown, Rust and Black -in spray bottles and hit everything else. Here are the shoes, legs, arms and gloves, all evenly dirty. 252 253 Here's how the boots look after weathering and while wearing them. 254 255 256 I know, I know... Get the pictures in the sunlight... Weathering the Mask! I used a dry brush of the Dark Brown and Rust paint colors on all the resin pieces and some on the fabric and leather wraps, as well. Then I uses the spray bottles with all three watered down paint colors. 257 258 I was afraid I was over doing it with the paint, but now looking at it in the sunlight, it could use a little more wear and tear. 259 I was happy how the dry brush weathering on the side vision screen made the light colored screen blend well with the rest of the wraps. 260 Here is a close-up of the face, showing the dry brush weathering and accents. As I was moving this around my garage the past couple months, the tooth got a nick in it and I just painted it up to make it look like it was earned. 261 Weathering was fun! I just went at it a little at a time. I could always add additional layers of paint as needed, so I worked lightly at first. On the bottoms of the robes, I went a little heavy to show how I've been dragging them through all the Jundland Wastes and the Northern Dune Sea. It is rough out there! Next Up, The Bandoliers and Waist Pouches... But first, here's where I am on this project... My Project Summary, (idea stolen from someone (Insert reference here)) Sequence is straight from CRL Required Costume Components Mask √ Weathered? √ Neck Breather √ Weathered? √ Inner Robe √ Weathered? √ Outer Robe √ Weathered? √ Chest Bandolier √ Purchased Waist Pouches - Coming Up Next! Gloves √ Weathered? √ Arm Wraps √ Weathered? √ Waist Sash √ Weathered? No. Do I need it?? Pants ? Existing Khaki pants to be worn during events Boots √ Weathered? √ Optional Accessories Gaffi Stick - Purchased, still needs modifications Rifle - On my Wish List Don't go too far, there's still more to come... Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links 1 Quote
garbz Posted April 23, 2015 Posted April 23, 2015 I love weathering!! When I used to weather jawas for MonCal, I'd come up with stories on how it got that way. It gets your mind to really get into it!! Looking excellent!! 1 Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) Thanks guys! Glad it meets specs. I has been fun thinking of ways to bring the character and lifestyle out in these posts. I just can't wait to be able to go play in the sandbox and raid a few moisture farms! And just to follow up on the last post, I made it home in time tonight to get a few shots of the boots, arms and robes out in the sunlight for a more accurate idea of the colors. 262 263 Sorry that it was late in the day and the shadows are so strong. 264 265 Now, Stay tuned for some Bandy's, coming up next! Edited June 5, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 29, 2015 Author Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) On to the Bandoliers! Every Tusken needs bandoliers! The CRL says at least one, and if you are a Bantha Rider (a Tusken without the outer robe), then you need three! I'm going for either two or three - the waist pouches and at least one over the shoulder. Now thinking economically, I should be able to make them. After all, there are templates available and plenty of how-to threads. I started with the Studio Creations' British 1903 template (found here) and some dark brown craft foam. I used rubber cement so I could take them apart for adjustments, if needed Maybe, but I'm not sure. Maybe if they were weathered... Not! 266 I decided to try using some of the dark brown vinyl that I used for the mouth pleats. I used the same SC template and cut out the vinyl. Instead of investing a small fortune on Sam Browne buttons, I decided to try using 1/2" brass paper fasteners. I used pliers as a spacer as I pushed the fastener through the vinyl and glued them in place. This resulted in something that will work for me. With a little slit in the flap... 267 ... the flap hooks right over the fastener. But I'm still not impressed with my results. They look thin and flimsy. Besides, I still need to make the belt! 268 So, I started searching for replica bandy's and they ranged in price from 'not bad' to 'OMG'. And most of them are newly made replicas that I would still have to weather. Then I got thinking that if I spent that much money for a replica, what could I find in an original one? I eventually found an original 1903 style British leather bandolier for $90.00 plus shipping off eBay. I splurged and bought it. This way I have an original one to use as a template for making more. I also ordered a Rubies Gaffi Stick to use for pieces or as a template. They both came the same day, but I wasn't sure which package was which?? 081A The original leather bandy has four pouches on one side and five on the other. There is a date stamped into the belt that says 1917. I think it looks pretty good for 98 years old! 269 Especially when compared to my first two attempts. 270 - And look at that weathering! It looks so real! Wait, it is real... I like these enough that I am thinking of just starting out with this as the one over my chest. 271 - EDIT: I still love using these. There is no way I could replicate the look of these! Now I've gotta make the waist pouches! I followed Arcturus1020's excellent documentation of how he made his pouches, including using his template. Keeping on the idea of economy, I decided to first try these using vinyl. If this doesn't work, I will need to get some real leather. At Jo-Ann Fabrics, I decided on the "Tan" Marine Vinyl and bought 2/3 of a yard (24", 610 mm) I printed Arcturus' template on 11x17 paper so the pouch itself is 3" x 5-1/2" x1" (76 x 140 x 25 mm). The size and shape looks pretty good, but the vinyl is still thin and flimsy. I made a second one and backed it with craft foam of the same color. The bottom was my first one, and the top has the extra layer of foam to give it some mass and rigidity. This will work! 272 Here is the second pouch in progress to test to see if this is what I wanted. I only added craft foam where I needed to add stiffness - on the front, sides and on the flap. The white back will have several layers of vinyl together. TIP: Cut the craft foam stiffener larger than needed and trim after it is glued! 273 EDIT - Added names to the picture to help explain the process. I spray painted the edge of the vinyl so the white backing would not be as visible as it is in the photo above. I was pretty lucky for such a close color match with the vinyl in the middle. 274 I cut the foam oversized so I could get the edges of the vinyl and foam to match perfectly. 275 For this step, I used rubber cement on both pieces, let it dry to the touch... Note that I scored the corners of the craft foam where it will be folded into a corner 276 ... and put them together and rolled them to seal them. 277 After cutting the edges and flap to shape, I marked the hole locations and punched them out with a leather punch. Notice in this picture how the belt strap in installed. 278 Before I put anything together, I weathered them all using brown shoe polish. This brown color is just to give them the look of age and time on leather. 279 I added shoe polish to all the pieces, including the belt strap. Before I was done, I hit them all with Testors Dull Cote spray paint. Any clear flat paint should work for this. Note: I left clear the flap areas to get glue. 280 TIP: I learned from the first pouch that it is best to install the belt loop before folding the pouch together. Why, you ask??? I have no idea what I will want to carry in these pouches - candy, trading cards, camera, phone... I just don't know. But, now is the time that I can make sure there are no exposed metal fasteners inside the pouches that could scratch or damage the camera, phone, trading cards, etc. Just a little preventative medicine! The dashed pencil lines show how far the flaps overlap when glued together. I installed the belt strap and then turned the brass fasteners to be vertical so they will be fully covered by the side flaps. EDIT: GLUE THE BELT LOOP CLASPS IN WITH EPOXY OR SOME STRONG GLUE SO THEY DON'T COME OUT DURING YOUR FIRST TROOP! Lesson Learned!!! 281 I also decided to use the brass fasteners for the closer snap for looks, instead of buying the more accurate Sam Browne snaps. If you choose something else, this next step may not apply to your project. Since I decided to actually using these waist pouches to carry stuff, now is the time to figure out how to keep the flaps closed. I decided to try some 1/4" x 1/16" (6.35 x 1.6 mm) rare earth magnets for this. I should have done this before attaching the foam to the vinyl, so I had to be very careful... I folded up the pouch and found where the snap would go. On the inside of the pouch, I carefully twisted a punch at that spot to cut through just the foam, but not touch the vinyl. Then a dab of E6000 to hold the magnet in place 282 I used the roller again to pre-fold the corners of the pouch. This helped improve the squareness of the corners, but they are not perfect. Maybe scoring the foam more would have been better. 283 For gluing the pouches, the rubber cement would not hold them permanently. And since I didn't have much E6000 left, I grabbed a new tube of Goop. I ended up using the whole tube on these. EDIT: REMINDER TO ALSO GLUE THE CLASPS IN PLACE WITH EPOXY OR SUPER GLUE! 284 Following the instructions, I applied Goop to both surfaces and let it cure for about 5 minutes. I used a wood block for forming the pouches, but since mine are not real leather, I did not have to soak mine and let them dry around the wood blocks, like other pouch projects have done. 285 Then I had to hold the side flaps exactly where I needed them as I rolled the back over top of them. This was awkward, but not complicated. Notice the tube of Goop as it gives up its last bit of glue! 286 I used a 3/4" (19 mm) piece of wood and some cardboard to add thickness. 287 For the front snap with the added magnet, I trimmed of the ends of the brass fastener. I pushed it through from the front and made it tight to the flap. I added a dab of E6000 on the fastener and then the magnet. TIP: Make sure the magnet polarity is facing the right way so that it is attracted to the other magnet so the flap closes. If you don't, it will try to attach only at the edges. I figured this tip out after doing it wrong the first time. I just pulled the magnet off, cleaned off the glue and tried it again. 288 If these magnets don't actually work when trooping, I'm going to add the round Velcro dots like I used on my shoes. I might use Velcro for at least one pouch now so that I can hear if someone goes for my phone. Oops. Hit a picture limit. Hold On... Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 29, 2015 Author Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) And, We are back... Once the pouches were all assembled, I hit them all with black shoe polish on places where normal wear would be expected for pouches worn on a belt. I know opening the flap would get my leather flap pretty dirty. I still need to tone down the bright brass of the snap. Here, the left three are finished weathering, while the right three still need the black wear and tear. Yes, I know that adds up to Six. Once I got started, it was hard to quit. If I had more glue, I might still be making them... EDIT: It is nice to have six, since there are times where one is in needs of repairs. These are not as durable as leather pouches would be, but they were economical at the time I needed them to be. I may make new leather ones sometime... 289 I had a 20-year-old belt blank that I will use for this. The colors don't match perfectly, but it is not really visible when wearing the outer robe. If I need to change it, I have some more vinyl that I can cover it with. So, how do they look? Out in the sunshine... 290 The belt loop needs some heat to get a permanent fold in the top... 291 I made the first one without a magnet inside, so I just added it outside the pouch. Nobody will ever know, except you, of course. Let's keep it a secret 292 Next Up, Putting It All Together! Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 Quote
wingnut65 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) As we make our Final Approach into the 501st, please make sure your seat backs and tray tables are in their full upright position. Make sure your seat belt is securely fastened and all carry-on luggage is stowed underneath the seat in front of you or in the overhead bins. Thank you and enjoy the ride... Assembling A Tusken! Next step is to make sure all the costume puzzle pieces actually fit together and then get all the necessary pictures for the application... We're getting close, now! I finished weathering the robes and making the waist pouches on Saturday evening and I had a few minutes between church and the next place we had to go to get these most important photos. The sun was out and everything was perfect. I got my costume on and my daughter took pix of the poses I wanted. I still had a few minutes to look at them on the computer before we were off again. Well? The colors all seem to blend nicely, but these shots didn't show the weathering well. 293 294 Uuuuuuurrrrrggggg!!! Where is my Neck Breather??? Dummy, It's still sitting in the garage on my drill press! So, I got a little practice putting the whole costume on and off a few times that day! When we came back from running errands, it was about supper time and I had to get the shots again in daylight. Except it was overcast! Uuugghhhh! Well, let's see how they turn out! These are the formal photos (including the neck breather) that were submitted late Sunday night to my GML for review. Now they are all together, the bottom of the inner robe is going to be shortened so the boots are visible and I'm not dragging it on the ground. I think the outer robe is fine, for now. 295 - The photos start off with an ice breaker of the traditional Tusken Pose, holding an unaltered Rubies Gaffi. I am currently in the process of rebuilding it to be screen accurate. Strange, the weathering looks better in the shade than the bright sun. 296 Note to self: I need to shoot these side shots again with my hands down so the mask is completely visible. 297 298 299 300 Since the robe is too long and the boots are not visible, I also sent him these separate shots of the boots to show what they really look like. 301 302 Now it is time to play the waiting game... Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links Quote
wingnut65 Posted May 1, 2015 Author Posted May 1, 2015 (edited) Thanks' guys, it's been a fun project, but the journey is just beginning! The Tampa Bay Tusken Update! The Ofishal Photos were submitted late at night on Sunday 4/12. Photos were approved by my Garrison Membership Liaison (GML) on Wednesday and I was asked to go ahead and fill out the 501st online application so it could be processed. That as done quickly. Then the waiting game continued... TIP: When one sends first costume pix to GML for approval, go on to the 501st website and fill out a membership application. Then, when the GML has approved the costume, they can immediately add it's approval to your 501st application! Thursday 4/16 was the starting day of Celebration Anaheim and I watched quite a bit of the live video feed from my desk, high over Tampa. As I ate lunch, Celebration 7 began with the J.J. Abrams and Kathleen Kennedy panel discussing the upcoming movie Star Wars VII: The Force Awakens! From my desk, I got to meet the new cast and see some old friends and I was totally blown away with BB-8. The panel finished their presentation with the release of the second trailer to Episode 7... "Chewie, We're Home!!!" Wow! What an Awesome Day! Then, it got better! 2 hours later, I received the long awaited welcome e-mail from the 501st! On Day One of Celebration Anaheim, I became, DZ 50297! The number I chose is my twin daughters' birthdate, which they will turn 18 on Saturday! Next Up, Let's Go Trooping! Or maybe we just finish the Gaffi and fix the robe and iron the waist pouch belt loops and … We're not done with this project, yet... Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 photo links 1 Quote
mutter Posted May 5, 2015 Posted May 5, 2015 Sorry I'm so late, but CONGRATULATIONS!!! Excellent work on you project and welcome to the 501st! 1 Quote
wingnut65 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the congrats and welcomes! This ride is going to be fun! First Troop is in the record books! The Glazer Children's Museum in Tampa held a special event last weekend in celebration of Star Wars Day. On Sunday, May 3rd, I trooped at 'A Galaxy Far, Far Away Weekend' event. We had about 20 in costume for a couple hours. I was fortunate that a Female Tusken showed up for me to wander around with. She has been trooping for a couple years and made it easy for me. Her Tusken Baby was a real hit. Several times, I handed my gaffi to the mom or dad to hold for a picture. I could hear their excitement as they posed. The Children's Museum even had a sandbox! Where else would a sandperson be? When in the sandbox, ya just need a shovel! A couple times I found a bench with an empty seat that just needed to be used. It was fun when they realized a character was sitting next to them! And they just had to break out their phones to take pix. I decided to make this my first troop because I drive by the Museum every day on the way home from work and now I have a connection to it. There were events on Saturday for Free Comic Book Day, but they were about an hour away, and it was my twin's 18th birthday (thus my DZ number) and I spent the day with them. There was a second troop later in the afternoon at the zoo for a Lupus Walk, but I didn't sign up because wasn't sure how my costume would hold up and if I would need to do repairs. My first troop was a big success and only minimal changes are needed before the next troop. Lessons Learned My Waist Pouches need work! As I was putting on my costume, I pulled the belt loop out of one of my pouches. The 1/2" brass clasps came right out. Luckily, I made six pouches, so I just grabbed the back-up. One thought would be to use longer clasps, but I think I may just take all the pouches apart and use epoxy to glue the clasps in place. Or, I could give up on the economy approach and go buy some leather. Maybe, but not now. It was hot in the costume, even in the air conditioned museum. I made a comment afterward of how much I was sweating and someone said that a head band would help with the sweat. Great idea! Several times as I walked, my handler would adjust my outer robe to get it back over my shoulders. It kept slipping down. From then on, I was conscious of my robe and I kept pulling it back up. I need to fix my neck wrap! As I looked over the pictures from the day, I was disappointed to see there is too much of a gap at my neck as the wrap sags too much. I will see if I can stiffen it, or if I need to change to the full fabric neck wrap that others are using. I also found out that Tuskens have much more freedom to have fun with the public than armor costumes do. We were able to play with them more. Several times, I leaned over someone's shoulder as they were looking at their kids or at another costume and immediately they wanted to take a selfie with me. With all the kids around, there were plenty of strollers. As an empty one approached us, I told my partner that the baby should be in the stroller. The family loved it! My Troop #1 was a blast and a success. Can't wait till the next one. I think I may be eligible for SWW! I will edit my build to show improvements as I encounter the need. Thanks for checking in! Edited June 5, 2019 by wingnut65 updated photo links 1 Quote
Arcturus1020 Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 I had feared that this may pose a problem with your waist pouches when you were using the brass clasps when you had posted your progress photos. Quick rivets aren't that expensive and they do the job extremely well! And you needn't use so much GOOP adhesive—it's not contact cement so you don't have to apply it to both parts before adhering them together. I was using contact cement, which is why I put adhesive on both. And yes, it does get hot in the mask without any fans. I'd install some fans and/or get an Under Armour heatgear balaclava to wick away the sweat. I use one for both my Tusken and Vader—it does an incredible job! For my neck, I just use some fabric that velcros in the back and let my head bandages hang underneath that for a little added neck protection. Tuskens showing skin is a BIG no-no. You can always glue the neck wrap to your mask and velcro the back closed. And yes, we do have a LOT more fun than others in costume. There are so many more opportunities to interact with people—even if you're not speaking English to them! I just grunt and make a lot of Tusken type noises and mime what I'm trying to say to them. I'm glad you had so much fun!!! Lessons Learned My Waist Pouches need work! As I was putting on my costume, I pulled the belt loop out of one of my pouches. The 1/2" brass clasps came right out. Luckily, I made six pouches, so I just grabbed the back-up. One thought would be to use longer clasps, but I think I may just take all the pouches apart and use epoxy to glue the clasps in place. Or, I could give up on the economy approach and go buy some leather. Maybe, but not now. It was hot in the costume, even in the air conditioned museum. I made a comment afterward of how much I was sweating and someone said that a head band would help with the sweat. Great idea! Several times as I walked, my handler would adjust my outer robe to get it back over my shoulders. It kept slipping down. From then on, I was conscious of my robe and I kept pulling it back up. I need to fix my neck wrap! As I looked over the pictures from the day, I was disappointed to see there is too much of a gap at my neck as the wrap sags too much. I will see if I can stiffen it, or if I need to change to the full fabric neck wrap that others are using. I also found out that Tuskens have much more freedom to have fun with the public than military costumes do. We were able to play with them more. Several times, I leaned over someone's shoulder as they were looking at their kids or at another costume and immediately they wanted to take a selfie with me. With all the kids around, there were plenty of strollers. As an empty one approached us, I told my partner that the baby should be in the stroller. The family loved it! 1 Quote
wingnut65 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) It was a fun troop. There was one little girl who was telling us how ugly our baby was. We just laughed as it looks just like its parents! Some people really thought it was a real baby and that we were cruel for putting it in a costume. Ah, yes, the balaclava! He did mention that also as a solution to my dripping. I know I will need one for my TK, so might as well get a couple now. I'd really like to look into the fan option for my bucket. I can't find anything on the KC showing how others have added them to their heads. Would Echo's fan system fit in a DZ head? The local 4th of July Parade would be a lot more fun with fans! Or else I'm going Bantha! The quick rivets work great on leather, but the vinyl is too thin. I tried them first, but the force needed to make the rivet work, also cut thought the vinyl. The brass clasps are an option I'm still going to work on before jumping to all leather. I have ideas that will keep them from pulling through the holes, but I just need time to work on them. As for the Goop, this is the one time that I actually read the instructions (There's a first time for everything!) to see what they recommend since I knew the waist pouches would be abused while trooping. I had been just gluing one side, but the package said to apply to each surface and allow to dry 2-10 minutes before bonding, I did. We will see how well they bonded when I go back and take them apart. Next Up... Rebuilding a Rubies Gaffi. I just realized that I was so excited about posting my first troop, I forgot to update the final stretch for my build. Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65 line spacing 1 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted May 12, 2015 Posted May 12, 2015 I have pretty much figured out that the Tusken is winter only for me. Even in A/C here in Houston inside whenever I have worn it it's simply almost unbearable. I will wear it for comicpalooza this month month for a few hours at the booth only, but then it's strictly TK for me until it gets cold again. Quote
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