Tampa Bay Gets A Tusken - Lots of Pictures...

[Arcturus1020]

As for the Goop, this is the one time that I actually read the instructions (There's a first time for everything!) to see what they recommend since I knew the waist pouches would be abused while trooping.  I had been just gluing one side, but the package said to apply to each surface and allow to dry 2-10 minutes before bonding, I did.  We will see how well they bonded when I go back and take them apart.

 

Ha! That's crazy!!! I've been using this stuff for years...apparently the wrong way, but it's stil always held up for me. LMAO!!!

 

Oh, and I have a muffin fan installed at the top of my mask blowing hot air out and a couple blower fans in the front that I also use in my Vader. I guess it depends on just how much room you have inside and the types of fans you use. See the fan here.

[KellwolfB6]

Just started my build with the Poor Man kit, and I'm leaning heavily on all your hard work. Thanks for such a detailed build thread! I'm over in Orlando, so maybe we'll get to troop together sometime!

[wingnut65]

Glad it can help, Steven!  I'm an architect by day and tend to be very graphic oriented.  When I could not find a picture of the exact issue I was looking for, I decided to add enough images so that I could understand what I did to my build. It was a learning process that I am glad to be able to share.  EDIT:  I'm so glad I did post so much detail so that now, 4 years later when I need to make updates, I have all the info documented!

 

Your progress looks awesome!  Keep up the great work!

 

Now that mine is completed, I've had fun trooping a few times.  Most recently was the Tampa bay Comic Con, which we had several Makaze Squad members trooping with us.  I'm sure I will be coming your way for a few troops, as well.

 

I just love this smile!

 

BTW, I found Waldo!

Edited June 8, 2019 by wingnut65
photo links

[Talkren]

Glad it can help, Steven!  I'm an architect by day and tend to be very graphic oriented.  When I could not find a picture of the exact issue I was looking for, I decided to add enough images so that I could understand what I did to my build. It was a learning process that I am glad to be able to share.

 

 

 

 

 

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your detailed posts. I have been leaning hard on your thread for robe reference and even have it as one of my most viewed sites on the New Tab page in Chrome. Thank you for your posts here. 

[Christina]

Amazing thread thanks so much for sharing. As I build and weather my Tusken I'll be referencing this often! 

[wingnut65]

Hello again, Krayt Clan! 

 

As I’ve gone through my Tusken build-thread to update all the photo links for a new image hosting site, I realize that I did not include in this thread, any info on my gaffi build, my fan addition or how I store and transport my Tusken.  So, let me get working on sharing those…

 

NOTE: Also, as I updated my photo links, I also added some current comments and updates to several older posts noted in Purple italics, as this note is.

 

I planned for this thread to be a comprehensive all-inclusive documentary with way too many photos of how I did my build so that others can use it as a guide for their build.  However, I realize now that I only posted my gaffi build under the ‘Tusken Raider Accessories’ section, but not here. Instead of reposting my fully detailed build that covered 2 posts and 36 photos, this will be a summary…

 

If you are going to build a Tusken Gaff and want to see the whole build process, please check out my full build - Not Another Rubies Gaffi Build! - Lots of Pictures…

 

A Summary of my ‘Not Another Rubies Gaffi Build!’

I started with a Rubie’s “Tusken Raider Staff” from Amazon $24.99 and then modified it. Disney offers a very similar one through Amazon and, I think, in some of their park stores.

305 – Note: floor tiles are 12” (305 mm)

 

The Rubies gaffi is just over 4’ tall (1220 mm), which is a little short for my 5’-10” (1776 mm) height. Also, the tube for the handle is so thin that it will squeeze if you grasp it hard with your hands. As it comes out of the box, it would not survive much trooping. I replaced and lengthened the handle using PVC pipe from Home Depot (our big home improvement store)

 

The blades are just not intimidating enough, but they do give me the dimensions and placement for the new blades.

306

 

The pineapple head is the reason I purchased the Rubies Gaffi to use as the starting point.

307

 

Get the Point! - For the pointy spike, I could make a wooden point or use a tent stake as t_bone9600 suggested, but I was concerned that with not having much visibility looking through toilet paper tubes, I may bump into somebody and could hurt them. I wanted to make a flexible point that would not injure anybody if they accidentally encounter it.  I used pieces of rubber floor mats that I had left over from making tool inserts for my toolbox.  I glued a couple together to create a square spike that would fit down into the PVC pipe. I cut it close to shape and then used an orbital sander to even and smooth it out

 

311

 

To seal the pores in the foam, I used the nearest bottle of white glue and put on multiple layers, possibly 4 or 5.

313

 

Fins to the Left, Fins to the Right… - I first tried to use thick craft foam for the fins, hot glued to the pipe, but they would bend when set down and would never stay completely straight out from the pipe. So, I went with wood.  Not wanting to see the layers from plywood, I started with a piece of a 2x4 so it would be solid wood. I created a tab on the bottom that will be glued into a slot on the PVC pipe. I cut the block to shape with a radial arm saw.

315

 

Then I created a jig to hold the block in place while I sliced off the fins.  The fin-shaped block is hot glued to the block of wood on the left so my hands will never be near the saw blade. The block on the right was my jig to keep my spacing so all the fins would be 1/4” (6 mm) thick.  Since the solid block was so tall, I had to cut each fin in multiple saw passes, lowering the blade on each pass. (I may have been able to cut in one pass with a sharp blade.  D’oh!)

316

 

The results!  Four solid wood fins and a sliver of left-over scrap.  I used an orbital sander to shape all the edges to become a somewhat sharper blade edge.

(I have since purchased a new saw blade.)

317

 

The slots were cut into the PVC with a Dremel saw blade. Pilot holes were drilled at each end and then the middle was cut out.  An X-Acto knife squared up the corners of the slot.

318

 

I used hot glue to install the fins to the PVC pipe, creating welding beads on all sides of the fins with the hot glue. The spike shows that its overall length includes several inches to fit into the end of the pipe. This also allows me to

320 - Note the edges are all sanded to a sharper blade edge

 

TIP: I did not glue the spike into the pipe, just in case I may need to ever replace it, but also to be able to turn the spike around and point it into the pipe while I transport it!

346

Heads Up! - I cut the pineapple head off the original gaffi stick, leaving 6” (150 mm) of the original plastic handle to fit over the new PVC handle.  The outside diameter of the 1-1/4” PVC pipe is slightly smaller than the inside of the original plastic handle, so I wrapped a couple layers of thick Gorilla Duct Tape around it to fill the gap.  I coated the pipe and tape with the Empire’s Finest E6000 Adhesive and let it set overnight.

321

 

Since the pineapple head is hollow thin plastic, I want more bulk to it for weight and durability. I drilled several holes in the head to fill with Great Stuff insulating foam spray (expanding foam spray).

322

 

I sprayed enough at all angles inside so that it came out all the holes. After it dried overnight, I removed the excess, pushed the remaining back into the head a little, filled with model building putty and sanded smooth.  The hole on the pineapple area is between the bumps so it would be easy to fill in and be unnoticeable.  (In this shot, I still needed to fix the pipe-to-head seam!)

323

 

Painting and Weathering - The ‘metal’ portions were painted with the Ace Chrome Aluminum paint, but that is just a little too bright and shiny...

324

 

… It needed some weathering! I started with a wash of watered down black craft paint..

325

 

… I followed it up with washes of thinned down Brown and then Rust colored craft paints to give it the depth of three colors of weathering.  I topped it all off with several coats of thick gloss clear for layers of protection and a final coat of flat clear paint. Notice how nice the hot glue welding beads turned out.

326

 

The spike looks menacing, but really wouldn’t hurt anyone.

330

 

There is gap between the smaller and larger PVC pipes that I also filled using a layer of Gorilla Duct Tape to fill the gap.  I coated the whole length with E600 and twisted them as they went together to spread the glue around.  Plastic bag on the spike is to protect the weathering while I did the handle assembly and while I painted the handle Brown.

329

 

Once all the glue was dry, I painted the handle and pineapple head Brown.  I dry brushed Black craft paint over the whole thing for some weathering.  I used Silver craft paint to paint the knobbys on the pineapple. I wiped off some of it before it all dried.  For hand holds, I wrapped some dyed fabric around at two places.  This hand wrap is also covering the seam where the plastic tube from the pineapple head connects to the PVC pipe.

331

 

After I took these photos, I sprayed all the brown with a coat of flat paint to get rid of the shine. Looked much better.

332

 

The finished Gaffi turned out nice.  Compared to the remains from the original Rubies, you can see how much longer it is and how much I changed to the fins.  It doesn’t show, but it feels much stronger than the original - heavier and very solid. 

334

 

 

 

A Detectable Handle - After I had several troops completed with this gaffi, I realized that with my mask on, there is no easy way to determine which direction the pineapple point is facing. It looks more intimidating when it is facing outward, instead of facing behind me. 

 

So, after troop #2, I added a ridge in my hand grip so I can feel which direction the head is facing.  I unwrapped the fabric grip from the handle, which was easy to do since I used hot glue.  I glued a small craft stick (like a popsicle stick) directly in line with the point of the pineapple.

335

 

Then I re-glued the fabric around the handle. 

336

 

The ridge is barely visible when looking at it, but it can be felt in the hand, even with the gloves on.  Now I know exactly where the pineapple head is pointing.

337

 

A Gaffi Butt Rest - My last improvement is a butt rest for the gaffi.  I tend to stand with the spike pointing up and the pineapple downward. Often it is touching the ground.  For this, I used clear silicone adhesive (like caulk, or you can use E6000) to make a glue spot directly on the bottom of the pineapple. Since it is clear, it isn’t noticeable and doesn’t even show up in a picture. But this little spot of something soft and rubbery is perfect for resting the gaffi on the ground, sidewalk, asphalt, whatever, and it doesn’t get damaged. I check it and re-glue it when it wears down, and it eventually will.

 

Finished! - Now that I have almost 25 troops in my Tusken and using my gaffi, I would not change a thing on the gaffi.  Since I extended the handle, it really is intimidating!

(Note the flat paint got rid of the shine!)

 

 

Next Up, How I Pack and Transport My Tusken!

Edited June 11, 2019 by wingnut65

[wingnut65]

Packing Up and Going Trooping

 

First of all, I have a car with a small trunk. I will never be able to fit a big 50-gallon Husky bin anywhere in my car. So, I needed something small to pack and tote my Tusken to events.  And as small as my Tusken costume can be packed, I only needed a 12 Gallon / 45 Liter Sterilite Bin, and a folding hand-cart.

345

 

The hand cart folds flat and fits behind my seat, or easily in my trunk

345

 

343

 

Packing is very easy, especially since I have shoes and leg wraps, instead of boots. First layer in is my outer robe and my shoes

339

 

I pack the waist pouches in plastic bags to protect the weathering.  I then pack all the little pieces – arm wraps, neck seal, gloves, head band and balaclava – inside my mask. No sense in wasting the space…

340

 

Leg wraps are packed along the side of the bin so they aren’t folded too much.  The mask goes in next with the head spikes facing toward the center of the bin.  My inner robe is folded up and placed kinda under my mask, but also to protect the head spikes.  The other plastic bag is a repair kit with some more Velcro, glue and safety pins

341

 

Then, I put the bandolier and leather belt in the remaining space. My Moisture Collector is slipped over my mask and placed to fill the voids. I try to remember to throw in a couple bottles of water, just in case my Moisture Collector isn’t working that day.

342

 

All packed up, this is only 17 pounds (7.7 kg).  Considering other costumes, transporting my Tusken is a breeze!

338 - This also helps to show the size of the bin, since the tiles on my floor are 12” square (305 mm)

 

 

 

Happy Trooping!

Edited June 11, 2019 by wingnut65

[navarre1095]

This is the most comprehensive build thread I have seen! I'm gonna sticky this one.

[wingnut65]

24 minutes ago, navarre1095 said:

This is the most comprehensive build thread I have seen! I'm gonna sticky this one.

Much appreciated!  

When I started my build and couldn't find the right pictures to show what I needed, I vowed to over document and add too many photos to help the next Tusken Raider get built. 

I hope it can help many more!