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Found 18 results

  1. JAWA-Masks Video Tutorial

    Hallo ich habe auf Youtube eine Tutorial-Reihe zum bau der Jawa Maske gestartet. Da es für mich auf Englisch relativ schwer geworden wäre sind die Videos in Deutsch. Hoffe aber das durch die ganzen Erläuterungen meine Grundgedanken dennoch auch für die nicht Deutsch sprechenden verständlich sind und wenn Fragen sind stehe ich gerne zur Verfügung. Teil 3 wird in ca. 2 Wochen Welteneis Cosplay und Jawa Adventures und danach noch hier verlinkt. Links zu der Tutorial-Videos Jawa Masken Tutorial Teil 1 Die Augen Jawa Masken Tutorial Teil 2 Die Maske Hello I have started on Youtube a tutorial series to build the Jawa mask. Because it would be relatively difficult for me in to make the Tutorials on English are the videos in German. But hope that through the whole explanation my thoughts are nonetheless understandable even for non-German speakers and if there are questions I am happy to help. Part 3 will be linked in about 2 weeks Welteneis Cosplay and Jawa Adventures and afterwards here.
  2. Bith Suppliers

    Haven't seen any posts reffering to suppliers of Bith masks and hands, was wondering where the Bith's we have here got their bits from?
  3. My version of a Jawa mask!

    Jawa Mask I wanted to add my own experience making Jawa masks. I believe my style is very easy to make as no electronic skills are needed at all. I would love to find a good tutorial to learn how to set up electronics for masks, gauntlets etc. Until then this will do. I apologize in advance for not having WIP pics. First I got a superhero mask like Ironman. These can be found at Walmart or Target for $10 or at a thrift store for $1 or $2 if you're patient. My favorite mask is Lizard man because I like it's features but those are harder to find. The reason I like those masks compared to the plain white ones sold at craft stores like Michael's is because the plastic is thicker, more flexible and harder to crack. Those are solid masks. Also equally important, those masks have a rubber insert around the eyes. Those give quite a bit of stability and comfort. During long troops there is nothing stabbing you in the face. Just a soft rubber. With a snug fit it does not move around your face. The mask comes with a straight elastic from ear to ear. But it also has a slot on top of the mask. I inserted another piece of elastic to make it a 3 points strap. Along with the rubber backing around the eyes and this strap it is quite secure and pretty comfortable, other than the heat. I got a fabric that is easy to look through but harder to look in to conceal the eyes. I do not have the name of the fabric. I did this by trial and error. I made two oversized circles and glued them around the eyes. I got some fake fur and glued it around the mask with hot glue. Other glues could be used, but I'm inpatient. I cut the fur the best I could to the contour of the mask. Once it was done it was a furry mask. Then I used the heat gun around the fur. It is synthetic so it contracts quite nicely and it gave the appearance of burned skin. Careful not to use the heat gun around the eyes. If the fabric is synthetic it will make a hole! For the eyes I went to Michael's and bought a pack of Ashland Submersible LED Lights. Apparently those lights are to be put at the bottom of a pool or other water bodies for accents and they are quite bright! They are also a dome so it is the perfect shape and size. It uses 2 cell batteries. No bulky battery packs that add weight to the mask! The way it works, the dome is tightened to the bottom part. Once the contacts engage it is turned on. Loosen to turn off. I unscrewed the dome and sanded it on the outside. Then I used Martha Stewart Frosted Glass Yellow paint and painted on the inside. Careful not to paint on the threads so it can screw to the bottom part. This one will need a few coats between drying. If after a few coats the light is still coming strong in a beam instead of diffused, paint the light itself. Better yet fill a little cap with paint and dunk it. Let that thick slop of paint dry untouched. After it is almost dry you can smooth it with your fingers if you want. Once the painting is done, it will have a strong diffused glow. It will show even in direct contact with the sun. There is a small clip at the bottom part of the light. I cut it off because it is not needed. I glued the bottom part to the mask with hot glue gun. This glue is strong enough that will keep it securely yet can be removed with strong pressure if needed. I trooped about 10 times averaging 2 hours per troop before I noticed the lights were dimming and needed fresh batteries! The only weakness I found in the whole mask is that if you drop it face down the dome light may crack. Once it happens it won't light because it uses pressure in the threads to light. But knowing that in advance I had extra domes painted at the ready just in case! I would love your feedback!
  4. Greetings Fellow Denizens, Here's my first progress post on the forums. I've been searching, researching, bookmarking the heck out of these forums to learn how to build a Tusken costume. These forums have been extremely helpful. While I'm glad that I'm almost done with my outfit, part of me feels sad that the project is ending. Guess I'll need to choose my next build soon For my helmet, I went with the Darth Hair kit with aluminum parts. Here's a pic of the components: The first thing that I did was buy some leather dye and dye the snout strips. I went with Eco-Flo in Bison Brown and topped off with Eco-Flo Satin purchased from amazon.com. I didn't know anything about leather dying, this video helped me. I applied it with a craft sponge. I also put a cote of leather protection in a satin finish. After it was dyed and dried, I bent the leather back and forth until my hands were sore, that gave it a worn appearance, and made it a little more pliable. I followed Darth Hair's videos: part 1 and part 2 for drilling out the eyes, blood spitters, nose, and head spikes. I did stop following at the 7 minute mark on part 2 when he started applying the wraps. I think his videos are more of a rough guideline and also to show how quickly one can build his mask. You don't need to follow his instructions to the "T". Straying from the video, and learning from these forums, I applied some leather around the eyes and blood spitters: All that was left was to apply the wraps. I did not use Darth Hair's supplied fabric. I had a huge swath of duck cloth from Joann's that I purchased for my boot/arm wraps. To keep things consistent, I used that. I pre-washed the entire sheet of duck cloth, and then ripped a ton of strips ov various widths, between 1 inches and 3 inches. So, the duck cloth was pre-washed, dried on high heat, then ripped into strips lengthwise at various widths. I used the Rit Dye washing machine method using 1 bottle of taupe and 1 box of pearl gray. I really like the results. I followed Rit's instructions (including the 1 cup of salt) on how to dye with the washing machine. It was pretty easy. After dyeing, I threw all of the strips on the dryer and they got nice and frayed. While the strips dried, I ran an empty wash cycle with bleach just to clean out any dye. I began applying the larger strips first, just to get coverage. No particular pattern, just random. I used a combination of hot glue and E6000 (a tip I picked up on these forums). I applied smaller strips on top to try to show variation in the strip widths. Finally, I applied some weathering. I have a jar of powdered graphite that I use for faux gunmetal finishing on my prop weapons. I tried sprinkling some graphite powder on a test strip, and liked the results. I used a fat brush loaded with graphite powder and sprinkled it along the frayed edges. I did not touch the brush to the strips, I just let the powder fall off in random areas. If it was too heavy, I blew some off. After that, I just rubbed it in with my fingers. It gave it a nice dull gray dirty appearance. I used the same technique with a brown artist's pastel. I shaved off a bunch of pastel using the back side of an xacto blade to produce a fine powder. I used the same brush dabbing technique, just letting some powder fall and then rubbing it in. I did not use much brown. Looking at reference photos, I can't see much brown, the gray/black is the prominent "dirt" color. I used the brown sparingly just to give it a little depth. Finishing products: I kept Darth Hair's helmet liner. I secured it with industrial velcro. Because the face pieces are aluminum (and there's a pound of leather on the snout), the mask is very front-heavy. I know many of you are not fans of the hard hat helmet liners, but this actually works and keeps the helmet secure. I see now why a few of you opt for a skateboard-type helmet. Probably more comfortable and secure. Anyways, I don't mind this hard hat liner, it is keeping things in place, and doesn't hurt my head. In the pic below, you can see I made a mistake with the eyes on the initial drill. The side eye vents are supposed to be offset, I had them even. No biggie, can't see the holes. I folded the strips inside the helmet randomly. No loose hanging strips, there is an "edge" on the bottom of the helmet. I ran some 220 grit sandpaper around the snout to rough it up. The only thing I have left is my sash, also waiting on some bandoliers. The inner and outer robes, boots, arms, and breather are all about done. Thanks for reading and thank you all for the helpful posts. Without them, I could never have completed this kit.
  5. After the approval of my Jawa costume in November 2013 and probably 16 missions, I have to rework my mask. It has several "weak spots" and I have not been happy with it for quite some time now. So I am looking for inspiration and tips again, like back then when I built my costume originally. As I've been struggling with this "dilemma" for quite some time now, procrastinating and getting frustrating without really getting something done, I thought I'd start this topic to "sob my heart out" and pushing myself in front of audience, sort of. So PLEASE EXCUSE sharing my thoughts and long remarks. Besides the technical problems (like recurring loose connections of the cut flashlights that I use and consuming too much energy) and "physical" / material ones (like pieces of foam on the inside that drops when I sweat a lot), I also find it hard to breath under the mask and the veil sometimes. I get slight breathlessness, not really panic but a prestage of it, especially when I get out of breath at the "blast-a-trooper" for example or taking too many steps in the heat... and I am also hoping to improve sight / visibility ( I already tried different sorts of fabric). And it annoys me that getting my mask + veil off and on again for "bucket-off-photos" takes me much longer than the armoured troopers with their buckets, fumbling around with the ribbons of the veil and the buckle of the mask at the back of my head (I can remove the veil from the mask which I find helpful for washing it). Therefore I am thinking about a balaclava version instead of the veil (which can be seen on some photos and under certain lightning conditions). also inspired by JawaJaki's postings recently. But first I have to find a suitable mask base, I guess. However, my boyfriend came up with the idea of attaching LEDs to a piece of fabric, maybe adding a solid piece around the nose to cover it's shape. This idead is new to me, I have to think about it. I prefer my yellow "eyes" shown (instead of hidden under the veil), by the way. Am I the only one buying various supplies and items, hoping they might work but they end up "useless" or not practicable in a "trial and error" sense? Often, you only know after trying, right? It's not very economical, though. I really enjoy being a Jawa and the reactions to my costume (which are much "stronger" than with my Admiral Daala face-showing costume, which I also like in a different way, it makes me feel rather "respectful" and I can help out at the booth), but all the difficulties with my mask "tempered delight" recently and frustrate me, unfortunately.
  6. Jawa Mask by Elafra21

    I will start a new Topic where i subscribe how i build my Jawa Mask let´s start with the Eye´s Part 1 EYE´s For the Eye´s i use 30 mm of divisible plastic ball the inside is swilled out with wateredacrylic colour (1/1 with water) importantly open with the opening downcan be dried there otherwise thickenedcolour places form for the masks I use only the father side, because the mother side has an unpainted split (I use this after his separation for the candy jawa's)
  7. Decided to make a couple of Tusken Raider costumes. These are completed now but I thought I would share my build cause others may find some of the things helpful. A lot of this will be redundant from what is already found here in most work in progress threads but some of the installation of the interior aspects may help. I prefer to do all of my own work when I can & I wanted a complete bucket not a pieced together one, just stronger in my opinion. Went with an approach that I haven’t seen done yet, a complete 3D designed Tusken mask. I did my fabricating in the virtual world of design. I went in 2 directions one to be 3D printed & the second design converted to a Pepakura file to be scratch built. This was to prove out both concepts. I based design from as many of the reference photos & information that I could find to get it as close to accurate as possible. There are a few things that I see needing to be tweaked after the build was completed. The eyes, spikes, tusks, & nose were 3D printed for both masks .
  8. mask version 2

    I thought I would share my mask version 2. I had a plastic mask but found it too hot and it would stick to my face, so I made a new one with a paper mask. I used black felt pieces to cover the mask, and made a slit below eyes to hold my eye domes that have a hook on back. I also chose to use a balaclava to hide my neck and hair. I found this works better than the "veil" concept. I also added some velcro to the top of the mask, to secure to hood. This way it stays in place when I move around. Hope it helps others
  9. Just wanted to toss up some [almost] completed mask pics of my Poor Man's Kit. I still have some wrapping to do and then final weathering. I did take a few in progress pics but what helped me make my final decision when i was shopping for a helmet kit maker was all the "completed" photos. That kinda gives you an idea of the potential. So.. i figured I would pay back into the system, lol. The crooked mouth is ALL ME, btw. In my efforts to lengthen, drop and angle the snout down I failed to get it 100% in-plane to the eyes so he looks like he took a mean right hook to the chops. I'm going to run with it bc I'm happy w it. I'm bummed that I can't seem to get a good picture of it so these will have to suffice. For whatever reason it looks way better in person than in the photos. I tried taking them from far away to remove the wide angle distortion and resting the phone on a chair to keep it steady. Maybe I need to break out the dslr or someething.. no idea.
  10. ID That Tusken!

    I would like to summarize my findings when identifying the ANH Tuskens. I'm quite new in Krayt knowledge, please correct me if you find some errors in my findings. According to the recent Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy, by Brandon Alinger, 2014, there were four Tusken masks made for ANH. I call them A, B, C and D. However only A, B, C were seen in the movie and D appeared later. In summary I and others (recently jtechlove) have found this from reference photos: A ANH: Seen with a rifle aiming at Luke's landspeeder and attacking Luke with a long mace headed Totokia club. B ANH: Riding a bantha, seen with a mace headed Bovai Gadi. Books: From Star Wars to Indiana Jones 1995. Exhibitions: The Magic of Myth 1997-2003, Where Science Meets Imagination 2005-2014. Photos from the LFL Archives. C ANH: Behind A when A has the rifle, seen with a mace headed Sali club. Gus Lopez has this in his possession. D Not identified in ANH. Books: Chronicles book 1997, Star Wars Visual dictionary 1998, Star Wars Costumes 2014. Blu-ray still photos. I have seen some different methods to identify a Tusken like comparing head and mouth wrapping patterns, some other methods may give a hint like robes, bandoliers and weapons. Note that very often, if not always, profile photos are mirrored, make sure to check bandoliers and how weapons are held to get right/left side right. The head wrapping of Tusken A has been summarized by TrainWreck in this post: http://www.kraytclan.com/forum/topic/3988-tusken-mask-wrapping-reference-photos/ But is there another way to identify a Tusken in a reference picture? What is the DNA of a Tusken? Lets look at the nose/tooth and I will use some maths to give a Tusken an ID, and a method to identify a Tusken. Measure the width of five tooth parts and normalize to get the sum 100, think 100%, 100 mm, 100 pixels etc. side to side. This is a picture of the measurements: Measuring for the ANH Tuskens I get the following IDs: A: 31, 15, 10, 17, 27 (sum = 100) B: 29, 18, 10, 15, 28 (sum = 100) C: 31, 16, 15, 18, 20 (sum = 100) D: 25, 17, 13, 16, 29 (sum = 100) In a graph this looks like this: Now for a new reference picture shot en face take the same measurements, normalize to 100 and calculate the least square distance to each of the known IDs. The unknown Tusken is likely to be identical to the Tusken which has the shortest/lowest distance. Example: For Tusken A we have the measurements a1, a2, a3, a4, a5. For the unknown Tusken X we have x1, x2, x3, x4, x5. The least square distance for A is the Square root of [(a1 - x1)^2 + (a2 - x2)^2 + (a3 - x3)^2 + (a4 - x4)^2 + (a5 - x5)^2 ]. As a side note the ID of the Tusken may change if it undergoes a nose transplant;-)
  11. In addition to a standard Tusken Raider, I am making a Tusken Mandalorian helmet and am fabricating a mask out of sheet metal. I have not received my SC shell yet and can't wait any longer (my fabricator is moving). I mainly need the dimensions for the snout and face spike locations in relation to it. Does anybody have some measurements they can send me?
  12. I am sure somebody has asked this, but I could not find it. I am working on two tusken masks. One is for a standard ANH Tusken for the 501st. The other is a Tusken Mandalorian for the Mandalorian Mercs. I am going to fabricate my own eye stalks, head spikes, cheek spikes and nose piece. Where can I find the most screen accurate dimensions for these things?
  13. Here is my guide and for making the Garindan costume with pictures and suggestions about every part, including a sewing pattern for the hooded cloak. It is, at this point, not an official 501st guide, but to my knowledge the closest you can get. Available here in PDF-format for everyone: http://pilerud.com/download/save/Garindan_costume_replica_guide_by_Pilerud.pdf The comlink I use is a screen accurate comlink, from: http://resintrooperhelmets.weebly.com/accessories.html
  14. I see a bunch of pictures of the eyes, but I can't really tell what people are using. :/
  15. My son and I are building Tuskens together. We bought the Poor Man's kit and find it is a really nice kit. I figured I would document the build here. What a great place to post and throw around ideas. I also noticed there are a lot of builds with pictures of things already done, but not always how it was done with supplies and tools listed. I will try and do that too. I don't work that fast guys so bear with me! First thing I did was go after the face parts (resin pieces.) I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut out the slots in the eyestalks, and this handy little flat file that came in a file set I got from Home Depot, along with a emery board, and fine grit sanding block. The dremel allowed me to take "extra" material off the parts to get them to sit right and clean them up for better connection to the mask. The file was perfect for getting into the ends of the slots in the eyestalks. After the pieces were cleaned up, I just placed them on the uncut mask to be able to visualize how they would sit. Pretty exciting stuff!!
  16. Metal parts

    I am getting everything together to start a studio creations build. I want to have the eye pieces, head spikes, blood cutters, mouth piece to be metal. is there a good resource for them that will not cost me an arm and a leg?
  17. Hi everyone! I decided to try out the poor mans mask kit I got from dialswiftjustice the other day. Note that I am not a very artistic person so please be gentle, I do want to get it right eventually though! Okey so before the first picture here I cut out the holes very very poorly.. I've just figured out how I can make them better so don't mind them I colored the mask with some spraycolor that turned out to make it look like 3P0 rather than a tusken, but I guess it is better than white if something will show under the straps. I colored the tesin parts (blood spitters, eye tubes, nosepiece and spikes) with a silver spray color that gave it a pretty decent look to start with if you ask me. (None of the tesin parts are glued on yet.) My main question about this picture is of course the leather on the mouth.. It is so hard to get it right. Right now it is split in four parts that I've hot-glued on the outside so I can still control the pleats but it looks more like random tucking than actual pleating. The mistake I think I did was that I made the parts overlap so they need to get tucked in in a certain order and the one that comes in on top is the one I am least happy about. I am also concerned about how I will get the tesin nose-part so fit good and how to flatten the leather out where the nose is going. My biggest fear right now is that someone will just say "Dude, you killed it, literally. Get a new one!" So I am hoping someone will be able to point me in the right direction, I will come back with more updates and photos, I have got a load of photos of every single step I have done so far aswell I someone by any reason would want to see them Urrgh urrgh, have a nice day!
  18. Possible eyes, no wiring required

    So I'm slowly gathering material for my jawa build, it's still a long way to go. One thing that has scared me a bit though is the mask and the eyes. I've never tried to wire something and my experience with electrical lights go no further than changing light bulbs. Today I was at IKEA and found this: They are individual halfglobe lights charged by a small battery, which should run around 90 hours. The size is 46 mm, so a bit less than 2". Do you think they could work?