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Papa Bear    2

Hi all!  I've decided to document my build here so I can get tips/tricks/advice from you brilliant people! (yes, I'm sucking up in hopes that you will be nice to me.)

I downloaded Toolguy301's pepakura file, and printed it on 100# cardstock. Then I got to work...

 

I will shrink the pictures so I can upload them here.  Somehow I've screwed it up, and it won't allow me to do anything right now...  Total noob here.

 

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Papa Bear    2

Once I finished the papercraft build, I sprayed it inside and out with four layers of "Plasti-dip", to seal the paper and help it hold its shape when I sweat inside it.

0426171240a.jpg

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Papa Bear    2

Now I need to figure out how to fabricate the eyes/nose/cheeks/head spikes.  I do not have access to a 3-D printer, so that's out.

Any ideas?

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Gruntsky    89

A few people sell 3D printed parts on Shapeways, some others sell just the greeblies in the sales forum.

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Arcturus1020    310

You should probably back it with fiberglass or resin to maintain the integrity better. Plasti-Dip only does so much.... ;)

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Stro    9
7 hours ago, Arcturus1020 said:

You should probably back it with fiberglass or resin to maintain the integrity better. Plasti-Dip only does so much.... ;)

I was thinking about that too.  If metal parts are used, they might cause some flexing/distortion if the mask/base isn't fairly solid.  You *might* get away with resin pieces since they will be lighter.

I'm facing similar choices as I'm planning my build.

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toolguy301    16

I am not sure if this really warrants the need for fiberglassing.  On the mask that I did I used .060" (1.5 mm) thick chip board in the nose area, around the eyes, & the bottom edge to help with structure.  Then I used Smooth Cast 320 to coat the inside & out.  This is just a thin coating I wanted to keep this as light as possible but still be able to hold up.  Even with the resin coating the majority of the mask is still pretty flexible but still holds its shape.  With adding a hard hat liner into this help hold the shape of the top & then with the wraps help to create a layer that will maintain shape.  With the chip board on the inside of nose area & the added leather wraps this is very solid.

To me this mask can get by having some flexibility versus being too rigid.  Don't get me wrong durability is needed & that was taken into consideration.  With this mask I would tend to lean more towards lighter weight & flexibility than heavy & rigid.   The structure of the card stock will hold its shape quite well & creates a flexible core in side the resin or in the above case the platsti-dip.  I haven't used plasti-dip but it I am now curious to this see how well it works versus possibly resin coating the card stock.  I am almost thinking this makes it more of like a latex mask.

I have done a number of pep builds & this has held up very well for how I went about constructing it & this has held its shape with being very durable.

http://www.kraytclan.com/forum/topic/5553-tale-of-two-masks-a-3d-printed-a-pepakura-build/

As for weight of the eyes, tusk & nose there wouldn't be too much difference between resin/plastic & aluminum pieces.  Steel pieces would be roughly 3 times the weight of aluminum pieces.  As an example the nose (solid) & eyes would be around 0.4 lb's steel, 0.15 lb's aluminum & 0.1 lb's in resin/plastic.  The bloodspitters are half the weight of one of the eyes.  So even going with actual steel would be around 1.6 lb's for the face pieces.  This will also be dictated by how thick the pieces are made as well or if the nose is hollowed out.  Just to throw out some differences in calculated weights based on my models.

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Papa Bear    2

Thank you all for your replies. If I may ask, where would one find fiberglass/resin to use in a build? 

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Papa Bear    2

Sorry for the incredibly low-res pictures, but I am not allowed to upload any better photos if I want to do more than one a day.

Starting the pepakura build: 0422171047a.jpg.bdbb9071c8955f513215c2e06f78e1cc.jpg

Crown of the head coming along:0422172002.jpg.1de0905b35583b45b7a29851261f5c77.jpg

"Helmet" portion done:0423170041.jpg.1cf1a24732e951e96042ddf7dd19f84d.jpg

Starting the face:0423171644.jpg.009fedb95c46342a10d7c5a205bba666.jpg

More face build:0423171938a.jpg.c62c6337ec1ff350ea77c4b90a8580d6.jpg

Face is almost done:0423172204a.jpg.ef0ab6298e4ce5c9cb491c36f5e5d3a5.jpg

Building the nose:0424170854.jpg.f5bbf139f2e10966ea4b2c38cfa52594.jpg

Ready for Plastidip! 0424171307.jpg.852f26dcee9cdd95c6bfb1ad318ddcfd.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Papa Bear    2

Ok, my friends, Here is some more work in progress:

Tea-dyeing fabric for arm/leg/head wrapping:

Tea-dyeing-a.jpg.554c286159cd6a2f68742634c4172b83.jpg

Tea-dyed strips drying on my couch:

59b84c5119412_Tea-dyeingDrying-a.jpg.dbb692035d6f09e80c3f196f618065cd.jpg

1908 Enfield Bandolier built:

59b84c59445a7_1908EnfieldBandolierBuild-a.jpg.61e15a7d91dac99afc14f45a2c40ff23.jpg

Some weathering done on the 1908 Enfield Bandolier:

59b84c607a5fa_1908EnfieldBandolierWeathering-a.jpg.82e51f393bc22adde61e213d64884a31.jpg

Anyone have any comments/suggestions on if I need more weathering and how to do it? I'm a total noob here.

Thanks!

-Papa Bear (Criss)

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kacrut    25

Awesome bandolier build... for weathering?...

what kind of leather did you used? .. if it's a real leather here's the link

http://www.kraytclan.com/forum/topic/4524-weathering-a-bandolier/

http://www.kraytclan.com/forum/topic/245-aging-weathering-leather/

..and if it's a faux leather you can just sanded a bit and apply a dark colour shoe polish. ... hope that help. [tusken2]

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Arcturus1020    310
On 9/5/2017 at 9:15 AM, Papa Bear said:

Thank you all for your replies. If I may ask, where would one find fiberglass/resin to use in a build? 

There's a Dick Blick Art Supply store over in Salt Lake City and they should carry the Smooth-On resin products (300/325 series). I'd give them a call before you drive out there.

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Papa Bear    2

Okay, I think I've figured this thing out. I've put a page up on my build on my personal web page, and I think I can now link pictures... Here we go!

First, pictures of the three bandoliers - built, but not weathered yet:

0917171649_orig.jpg

 

Next, build pictures on my helmet:

0921171443-hdr_orig.jpg

0921171512_orig.jpg

0921171553_orig.jpg

0921171656_orig.jpg

0921172056_orig.jpg

I still need to put the top spikes on, then do the weathering.

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