Stro

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Stro last won the day on June 2

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About Stro

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    Darrin

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  1. Hi. I'm new to all this as well and I have found that carefully studying the actual movie and the associated production stills answer a lot of questions. That being said, my opinion is that you have a good start and that a careful comparison of your rig to the movie should help to guide you to improve the appearance. I don't think you are waaaay off but the mask wraps and inner robe color might need some adjustments. It's hard to tell actual colors sometimes in posted pics.
  2. This is exactly the conclusion I arrived at independently from this thread.
  3. Hi Lorelei- I can translate for you. I assume you know that 3D printing (in this case) involves melting a plastic filament and building up the printed object one layer at a time. 1) "0.1mm" is the height of each layer of plastic filament that is laid down. In general, smaller (less thick) layer heights *can* give better detail and better bonding strength between layers, although there are MANY factors which lend to detail and strength -- not just layer height. They are probably letting you know this to give an indication of possible resolution/detail. 2) "infill of 30%" is telling you how solid the piece is. You can probably imagine that the piece is not hollow and does have some plastic on the inside. This is called infill. 100% would be solid. 0% would be hollow. 30% would mean 30% plastic and 70% air. The 30% of plastic would typically be laid down as a cross-hatch pattern or something similar. 30% is pretty solid if the cross-hatch pattern is used. It keeps the finished product lighter, uses less material, shorter time to print, and less chance of warping during print, all the while providing the model with enough strength to be handled and hold up to mild abuse. 3) "PLA" is the type of plastic used. Polylactic Acid is what you can Google if you want all the gory details on the chemistry. It is very popular in 3D printing due to cost, has less of a tendency to warp during printing, good print bed adhesion during printing, less smell when it's melted during printing, easy to glue, file, fill, sand, paint, etc. A couple of other examples of plastic types used to print are ABS and Nylon. I use PLA almost exclusively now because it has improved so much in the past couple of years. It's also biodegradable and is often made from renewable material. Hope that helps. I think another factor worth considering is to ask what the wall thickness and number of wall layers are. Generally, 3 layers is good. Appropriate thickness depends a bit on the model and the material used (in this case PLA). Cheers! Stro
  4. Thank you for that explanation. It's nice to know I won't be excluded from troops if I can't achieve Level 2 for some reason. It's also really nice to know that everyone is equal. Much preferred. Sounds like a good group of people.
  5. Thank you!
  6. Hello- I have some clarification questions regarding the topic of Level 2 for the ANH Tusken Male. 1) So the difference between Level 1 and 2 certification for the ANH Tusken male is, for Level 2, duplicating the bandoliers seen in the Luke fight scene and nothing additional? 2) When submitting, does a request for Level 2 certification have to be explicitly made to the GML? 3) What is the purpose of the distinction of Levels? In other words, does being a "Level 1" exclude participation in certain cases? Cheers!
  7. Hello- I have some clarification questions regarding the topic of Level 2 for the ANH Tusken Male. 1) So the difference between Level 1 and 2 certification for the ANH Tusken male is, for Level 2, duplicating the bandoliers seen in the Luke fight scene and nothing additional? (btw- it looks like maybe the CRL should read "fight" instead of "flight"...) 2) When submitting, does a request for Level 2 certification have to be explicitly made to the GML? 3) What is the purpose of the distinction of Levels? In other words, does being a "Level 1" exclude participation in certain cases? Cheers!
  8. Looks good!
  9. I was thinking about that too. If metal parts are used, they might cause some flexing/distortion if the mask/base isn't fairly solid. You *might* get away with resin pieces since they will be lighter. I'm facing similar choices as I'm planning my build.
  10. I'm researching like crazy... Started several folders on my local PC hard drive to keep track of everything. Lots of interesting bits regarding the bandoliers and which styles are best. The production stills of Peter Diamond raise even more questions...
  11. Yes, that's the local group. Thank you for the heads-up!
  12. Thank you all!
  13. Hello everyone and thank you for letting me register for your forums. I've spent the last several days combing through the forums researching information for the creation of a male Tusken Raider costume as depicted in Episode IV. There is a lot to learn and I am very impressed by the wealth of information available and the willingness so many have had to share what they learned. I appreciate all the information which has been posted by saying "THANKS" as it will no doubt make my project easier than it was for those before me. I hope to be finished in the next few months and intend to share anything useful I learn as I progress.