Poholio

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Poholio last won the day on November 26 2016

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About Poholio

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    Justin

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  1. Had a little time to mess around. Got to work on the tooth. I cut the shapes out of styrene and filled it with Bondo. I am not sure I am digging it so far. It's not sanded down much yet, but if the finished tooth leaves much to be desired, I may pick up a 2 inch wooden sphere and cut it down. Here's the mask with a layer if PVA and linen: With any luck that will keep the shape nice and strong. The much was pretty good, but I want to be sure it's rugged. I will look for some ways to waterproof at least the inside against the inevitable deluge of sweat I am bound to produce in it. Anyone have any thoughts? I am thinking maybe latex house paint, or resin. Thanks!
  2. Okay, so I disliked the angle of the face and tried to do a bit o' surgery. He didn't make it. So, I cut out the cardboard face plate and made sure to brave the face with cardboard taped to the stand. I was also more careful with measurements and I think it seems better. Here it is with 4 layers of papier mâché: I left excess in the back that I will cut down when it's dry. Then I will remove the face mask from the helmet and mâché the inside with 4 layers. It's starting to look like something. Thanks for looking.
  3. Test fitting. What I take away from this is that the cardboard face must have shifted while I added paper and tape to the structure, as the whole face seems to look downward. I plan on cutting material out of the sides of the crown and giving it a literal facelift. I will readjust the jawline accordingly.I also need to lengthen the vertical height of the snout, as it just barely gives clearance for my chin. I cut the snout back some, but I still think it's slightly too long. I may cut it back a hair and robe the cardboard spacer from where the spitters will sit so the spitters don't jut out too far past the snout.
  4. Had the chance to work a bit more on the mask. I cut the snout down some. I also began covering it in a layer of newspaper and masking tape. With proof of concept eyestalk and spitter. The test greeblies will need adjustments in placement. The snout still seems off. I think the angle of the snout end is too acute. I would really like to simulate the Peter Diamond mask as much as possible. If anyone has critiques I'd be glad to hear them!
  5. Thanks! I am using Photobucket, so you have to go into the links and choose the one for forums, etc. Hopefully the images are appearing now.
  6. Well, it'd help, I suppose, if the pics appeared! Any idea how to add photos from Photobucket? Clicking the "insert other media" button and the "insert image from URL" didn't work; the URL just turned red. Thanks!
  7. Hello, So after hemming and hawing for too long and basically fearing taking the first steps, I have finally begun the Tusken. I started by accumulating a bunch of different items I'd need, like the fabrics and pieces parts for the bandoliers, etc. Got them in the mail in trickles, stored and waiting for their respective portions of the build to start. Many thanks to all the fine builders on this site- your prior experiences and documentation have aided tremendously in formulating a battle plan for this costume. As I want too stay as close to scratch built as I can, I dug around for other scratch builds and hit upon the thread@Contec posted. Big thank yous to @Arcturus1020 and @wingnut65 as well. I find myself continually referencing your posts also. So, armed with this great info, I set off to dig into the mask. Here are some preliminary experiments with sizing and dimensions. The snout looked really long on this attempt. Like a weird aardvark or something. The blood splitters definitely don't align correctly with the space where the tooth will be. I cut the snout down some, and it looks a bit better, but the spitters and tooth are still not in proper alignment. I am going to continue to modify the snout, and build up the area under the eyes and spitters to see if that helps to align the pieces more accurately. In my mind the "trapezoid" configuration of the eyes, spitters, and tooth is what makes the mask look spot on, rather than just reminiscent of a Raider. More to come. Cheers!
  8. In the reference material I have found, as well as in a bunch of threads here, it seems they are canted. That position may also help increase peripheral vision when wearing the mask, too.
  9. Checked in with the GML- no shoulder seams it is.
  10. Agreed; it's not quite right, but getting into the ballpark. Those things have to exist somewhere...
  11. Hello, I've been digging around trying to find the various bits and pieces for a raider costume and continue to be stumped on a screen-accurate flare nut for the rebreather. I went down the automotive and plumbing alleys but came up short. Did a little more digging and came up with this- a truss rod nut. Here's an example of one: http://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/truss-rod-nuts/brass-truss-rod-nut-for-gibson-guitars/. (hope it's okay to post that) They are used in repairing musical instruments like guitars and basses, I believe. It's not perfect, at least the ones I've seen so far, but pretty darn close with its tapered sides. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else was running up against the same issue. Cheers! Justin
  12. I have been researching the forums as well as any and all materials I can find online regarding appropriate materials for the outer robes. I do like the look of monk's cloth, despite not being completely accurate to many reference photos, and I am strongly considering it as a backup if I cannot find anything else I like. I seem to have hit a tad of a brick wall while looking for a blanket or other fabric that has that fantastic texture as can be seen on the Peter Diamond raider. I am familiar with the Ralph Lauren and similar blankets, some of which have great textures and similar or acceptable (in my eyes, anyway!) appearance. The issue, being 6'2", is that none of the blankets I can find are large enough, even in King size, to drape over the shoulders and still have enough length to look correct. The biggest blankets I can find all seem to measure in at 90" x 108", and that leaves a conservative 54" at most, not considering shoulder width, for overall length. The CRL indicates that there should not be a shoulder seam. I understand that to mean that one shouldn't sew two panels together at the shoulders, but rather vertically along the spine. I'd have no trouble at all using the great looking blankets if the shoulder seam mention weren't there! Perusing the forums, I encountered 2x2's post here: http://www.kraytclan.com/forum/topic/5870-outer-robe-question/ I too had noticed that the tusken on the left of the image (who appears to be the "Luke attack" Peter Diamond raider, judging from the gaffi, the mask features, and the texture of the robe) has what appears to be a seam at the shoulder. With that in mind, how likely is it to be an issue with approval, or is it recommended to contact the GML, as Chekur6 said, in order to confirm its acceptance? Thanks in advance for any insight anyone has!
  13. Thanks for the input, fellas. I will have to test out a few base colors wir the the dyeing methods you mentioned and see what looks best.
  14. Hello, Looking to finally begin a raider, and one question I have debated for a bit is the best for the duck cloth strips used on the mask and for limb wraps. It seems a lot of folks use a dark sandy colored fabric, whereas khaki has been pegged as a good and accurate choice as well. I am leaning toward khaki, judging by screenshots from ANH, but just wondered what anyone's thoughts were on this. Thanks!
  15. Thanks, Xmez, for the recommendation. I am hoping to go 100 percent scratch-built, but if I ever changed my mind a Godzilla would be my definite go-to. And I have seen your build thread, you did an incredible job!