Poholio

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Poholio last won the day on November 26 2016

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About Poholio

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    Justin

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  1. Made some progress over the last few weeks. Going slower than I hoped, but still, progress is progress. Snout puckery leather on. This was far more difficult than I anticipated. I must have spent an hour fussing with it. Rubber bands and tape keep everything together, just like in life. Preliminary tusk testing. They will need to be positioned more accurately. Actually starting to look like something. Here's the rebreather in progress. I hit it with a few coats of aluminum spray paint and weathered it with black, brown, and yellow ochre acrylics. I had a leftover piece of vinyl that fit the rebreather perfectly. It looked really nice ( forgot to get pics!) But I laid it on with e6000, and for whatever reason, the cement dried underneath and held it on, but some seeped through the crappy vinyl and never dried. It left the exterior surface sticky and attracted every piece of dust and lint in three counties. So off it came. Will be picking up vinyl for the bandoliers when Joann's has a good sal and I'm thinking I'll use some of it to cover the rebreather. Cheers!
  2. That's a good idea, the repair tape. Thanks!
  3. Okay, this may seem like a bone-headed question. I would like to include the cut outs on the sides of the eyestalks to add visibility, as so many have done before. I like the idea of having them included, since if I decide to sacrifice visibility for accuracy, I can always cover them up. The question is, what kind of mesh/screen are folks using for this purpose? Likewise, what is the best material for the screening behind the eye holes and mouth? Just plain old window screening, or something fancier?
  4. Looks great. Where'd you pick up the flare nuts? I am having a heck of a time sourcing adequate ones.
  5. Moving forward, trying to complete the helmet this month: I dyed the snout wraps with Fishings Medium Brown. Wow, that's dark! Fortunately, a little bending and sanding brings it to a respectable worn brown. Here are the head spikes, made from cut-down shaker pegs from A.C. Moore: Here are the screws and styrene washers to hold them on: The greeblies all hit with a couple coats of aluminum spray: Planning on sanding this smooth and adding a few more coats. Here's the beginnings of the rebreather, made from a larger-sized tomato paste can. The conical ends are cut from plastic break fluid cans, Gooped on. The caps are the caps from Walmart brand vegetable oil: Comments and critiques welcome!
  6. Hey, nice work! I am going the plastidip route as well for the same reason. Good luck!
  7. Thanks for the kind words, fellas. Had a pretty productive weekend. I coated the inside of the mask with plastidip, hoping it will help combat deterioration from sweat: Not sure if this will do the trick, but it's better than nothing. I also got pretty far on the spitters. They are made of funnels from Walmart. I cut off the tips and then cut those in half, sticking the thinner tip into the fatter one. Then a slathering of Bondo to fill in gaps. Foam work out mat to hold it in place. Added a thin strip of sintra for the lip. Here they are with the tooth and the beginnings of the eyestalks. The tooth I am sanding as smooth and shiny as possible, to help emulate the look of aluminum once painted. There are a few stubborn pock marks that just won't go, but hey, weathering. The eyes are tough! They are 1 1/4" schedule 40 PVC, heated and formed over a table leg, blah, blah, blah..you guys know the drill. The sight slots are really hard to get clean- I will need to Bondo it all up to get sharper lines. That's all for now. Thanks for looking.
  8. Had a little time to mess around. Got to work on the tooth. I cut the shapes out of styrene and filled it with Bondo. I am not sure I am digging it so far. It's not sanded down much yet, but if the finished tooth leaves much to be desired, I may pick up a 2 inch wooden sphere and cut it down. Here's the mask with a layer if PVA and linen: With any luck that will keep the shape nice and strong. The much was pretty good, but I want to be sure it's rugged. I will look for some ways to waterproof at least the inside against the inevitable deluge of sweat I am bound to produce in it. Anyone have any thoughts? I am thinking maybe latex house paint, or resin. Thanks!
  9. Okay, so I disliked the angle of the face and tried to do a bit o' surgery. He didn't make it. So, I cut out the cardboard face plate and made sure to brave the face with cardboard taped to the stand. I was also more careful with measurements and I think it seems better. Here it is with 4 layers of papier mâché: I left excess in the back that I will cut down when it's dry. Then I will remove the face mask from the helmet and mâché the inside with 4 layers. It's starting to look like something. Thanks for looking.
  10. Test fitting. What I take away from this is that the cardboard face must have shifted while I added paper and tape to the structure, as the whole face seems to look downward. I plan on cutting material out of the sides of the crown and giving it a literal facelift. I will readjust the jawline accordingly.I also need to lengthen the vertical height of the snout, as it just barely gives clearance for my chin. I cut the snout back some, but I still think it's slightly too long. I may cut it back a hair and robe the cardboard spacer from where the spitters will sit so the spitters don't jut out too far past the snout.
  11. Had the chance to work a bit more on the mask. I cut the snout down some. I also began covering it in a layer of newspaper and masking tape. With proof of concept eyestalk and spitter. The test greeblies will need adjustments in placement. The snout still seems off. I think the angle of the snout end is too acute. I would really like to simulate the Peter Diamond mask as much as possible. If anyone has critiques I'd be glad to hear them!
  12. Thanks! I am using Photobucket, so you have to go into the links and choose the one for forums, etc. Hopefully the images are appearing now.
  13. Well, it'd help, I suppose, if the pics appeared! Any idea how to add photos from Photobucket? Clicking the "insert other media" button and the "insert image from URL" didn't work; the URL just turned red. Thanks!
  14. Hello, So after hemming and hawing for too long and basically fearing taking the first steps, I have finally begun the Tusken. I started by accumulating a bunch of different items I'd need, like the fabrics and pieces parts for the bandoliers, etc. Got them in the mail in trickles, stored and waiting for their respective portions of the build to start. Many thanks to all the fine builders on this site- your prior experiences and documentation have aided tremendously in formulating a battle plan for this costume. As I want too stay as close to scratch built as I can, I dug around for other scratch builds and hit upon the thread@Contec posted. Big thank yous to @Arcturus1020 and @wingnut65 as well. I find myself continually referencing your posts also. So, armed with this great info, I set off to dig into the mask. Here are some preliminary experiments with sizing and dimensions. The snout looked really long on this attempt. Like a weird aardvark or something. The blood splitters definitely don't align correctly with the space where the tooth will be. I cut the snout down some, and it looks a bit better, but the spitters and tooth are still not in proper alignment. I am going to continue to modify the snout, and build up the area under the eyes and spitters to see if that helps to align the pieces more accurately. In my mind the "trapezoid" configuration of the eyes, spitters, and tooth is what makes the mask look spot on, rather than just reminiscent of a Raider. More to come. Cheers!
  15. In the reference material I have found, as well as in a bunch of threads here, it seems they are canted. That position may also help increase peripheral vision when wearing the mask, too.