I wanted to add my own experience making Jawa masks. I believe my style is very easy to make as no electronic skills are needed at all. I would love to find a good tutorial to learn how to set up electronics for masks, gauntlets etc. Until then this will do. I apologize in advance for not having WIP pics.
First I got a superhero mask like Ironman. These can be found at Walmart or Target for $10 or at a thrift store for $1 or $2 if you're patient. My favorite mask is Lizard man because I like it's features but those are harder to find. The reason I like those masks compared to the plain white ones sold at craft stores like Michael's is because the plastic is thicker, more flexible and harder to crack. Those are solid masks. Also equally important, those masks have a rubber insert around the eyes. Those give quite a bit of stability and comfort. During long troops there is nothing stabbing you in the face. Just a soft rubber. With a snug fit it does not move around your face.
The mask comes with a straight elastic from ear to ear. But it also has a slot on top of the mask. I inserted another piece of elastic to make it a 3 points strap. Along with the rubber backing around the eyes and this strap it is quite secure and pretty comfortable, other than the heat.
I got a fabric that is easy to look through but harder to look in to conceal the eyes. I do not have the name of the fabric. I did this by trial and error. I made two oversized circles and glued them around the eyes.
I got some fake fur and glued it around the mask with hot glue. Other glues could be used, but I'm inpatient. I cut the fur the best I could to the contour of the mask. Once it was done it was a furry mask. Then I used the heat gun around the fur. It is synthetic so it contracts quite nicely and it gave the appearance of burned skin. Careful not to use the heat gun around the eyes. If the fabric is synthetic it will make a hole!
For the eyes I went to Michael's and bought a pack of Ashland Submersible LED Lights. Apparently those lights are to be put at the bottom of a pool or other water bodies for accents and they are quite bright! They are also a dome so it is the perfect shape and size. It uses 2 cell batteries. No bulky battery packs that add weight to the mask!
The way it works, the dome is tightened to the bottom part. Once the contacts engage it is turned on. Loosen to turn off. I unscrewed the dome and sanded it on the outside. Then I used Martha Stewart Frosted Glass Yellow paint and painted on the inside. Careful not to paint on the threads so it can screw to the bottom part. This one will need a few coats between drying.
If after a few coats the light is still coming strong in a beam instead of diffused, paint the light itself. Better yet fill a little cap with paint and dunk it. Let that thick slop of paint dry untouched. After it is almost dry you can smooth it with your fingers if you want.
Once the painting is done, it will have a strong diffused glow. It will show even in direct contact with the sun.
There is a small clip at the bottom part of the light. I cut it off because it is not needed. I glued the bottom part to the mask with hot glue gun. This glue is strong enough that will keep it securely yet can be removed with strong pressure if needed.
I trooped about 10 times averaging 2 hours per troop before I noticed the lights were dimming and needed fresh batteries!
The only weakness I found in the whole mask is that if you drop it face down the dome light may crack. Once it happens it won't light because it uses pressure in the threads to light. But knowing that in advance I had extra domes painted at the ready just in case! I would love your feedback!