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  1. 7 likes
    WHAT YOU'LL NEED: Single shoulder 4-5oz Sam Browne Buttons Sam Browne Stud Anvil Neatsfoot Oil Rapid Rivets (Antique Brass is good) Rotary Leather Punch (the deluxe one is great because you can take off the tubes) Contact cement Cowhide leather strip (belt) Buckle* Wood stakes Misc. tools: Pliers, hammer Other stuff: Acrylic paint *I bought my buckle at Goodwill that was on a belt (cut off and put on new belt). Just know that if you don't purchase the Gold membership (or know someone with an Elite membership), expect to pay $181.86 plus tax for ALL of this. Having a membership does save you a lot of money...is it enough to offset the cost of a Gold membership (I used a friend's Elite membership phone number and spent just over $100 for everything)? I think it does...but you better do a little research yourself into this. It is a big investment, but if you plan on doing more leatherwork down the road, at least you'll have some things already. Now, you can also substitute the leather and go without a lot of these other suggestions and use a vinyl material and snaps in lieu of the Sam Browne buttons and just use contact cement to secure everything...the quick rivets just help secure everything even more so to withstand the rigors of trooping. These are just suggestions and you can use what you want...this is just what I used for this project.... Much like Noah, I decided to also try my hand at making waist pouches using a 4-5oz leather that was on the scrap pile at Tandy Leather Factory. I first created a template in Adobe Illustrator for a pouch that would measure 3" wide by 5.5" high by 1" deep. I'm going with a quick rivet type pouch instead of doing the stitching so it's a simple fold-over type pouch, but I'm wet forming them, and before you can ask, no, I have never wetformed leather or have done any of these pouches before now. I'm making this up as I go. I printed it out on 3 sheets of letter-size paper then cut it out and fold it up to check the proportions and overall look. It looks like a pouch, so I then transfer this to a more sturdy board (I'm using some scrap matte board) to use as my main template. I also drilled a hole on the flap of my board template and marked that as well on the leather when it came time to pencil out the templates on the back of the leather. Never mark up the front of your leather unless you plan on painting it. After I got as much out of the leather as I could, I cut them all out and got 7 pouches from this piece of leather. Not bad! Do not cut the rounded flaps...see my post on this below. Soaking the leather in a bath of really hot water. Wood blocks all cut down to size.
  2. 6 likes
    Greetings Denizens! Just before Halloween, I built a Jawa costume for my daughter, and she was approved by the Galactic Academy. As this was my first Jawa build, this site was a tremendous help in helping my daughter and I complete our costume. We followed M.J.'s build here: Thank you for all of the helpful tips M.J.! My daughter now has the Jawa costume, and I have a Tusken costume. Both of us wanted to be able to replicate our characters sounds. I found some components online that were not terribly expensive, and relatively easy to assemble. We mounted the electronics to a wrist compression glove, and connected the glove to a personal amplifier via mini-mini jack cable. Here is a video on how we put everything together. As you will see at the end of the video, the Jawa costume is small on me, that's my wife's Halloween robe. I can fit in it, but it is short at the wrists and ankles, it was only used here for demonstration purposes. I used sounds from TK0580, he uploaded Jawa and Tusken sounds in one of his posts on this forum. And another member: Kayelbe had mentioned the electronics123.com soundboard in the same post. The electronics123.com site does say that the older board only works with Windows XP, 7, and Vista due to driver issues. The older board also requires special software to upload sounds to the older board. Apparently, there is a new driver update that may alleviate the driver incompatibility. That said, it is pre-assembled, the little speaker that comes with it can be cut off. I chose the other newer board that works on all operating systems and is simply a drag/drop to upload the sounds. It does require a little assembly though. Here is a list of materials and tools: Sound Glove Components from Electronics123.com: 4 button trigger MP3 board: http://bit.ly/2nbvIOT ~$20 9 volt battery clip or holder: http://bit.ly/2my9tRM ~50cents Contact switches x 4: http://bit.ly/2nh8ymW ~$1/each Other components from Amazon: Wrist Compression Glove: http://amzn.to/2nrbuN5 ~$10 3.5mm (1/8") mini to mini cable: http://amzn.to/2mNQQJW ~$2 Velcro: http://amzn.to/2mefpN6 ~$3 Voice Amplifier: http://amzn.to/2mdGTS1 ~$25-$50 Recommended Tools: Scissors: http://amzn.to/2medPeb Small Screwdriver: http://amzn.to/2mx5pPT Needle/Thread or Sewing Machine: http://amzn.to/2mO0QmF PC/Mac USB to micro USB cable: http://amzn.to/2myosv2 Wire strippers Thank you for watching
  3. 6 likes
    Printed a couple up and then realised the nice clear filament did not photograph very well!
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  5. 5 likes
    Its obviously an invasion. Thats what communication disruptions usually mean...
  6. 5 likes
    Searched for it since 2,5 years. So happy now.
  7. 4 likes
    I use a relatively inexpensive crate from Target to haul my Tusken costume around. It isn't pretty, but it does the job. I was tired of it looking so...blah. Found a cool Tusken template online, blew it up to letter size and printed it out on cardstock (NOT regular paper). I put some music on, got a glass mat & an x-acto blade and began trimming. Tedious? Yes. Difficult? No. It took about 30 minutes. A sharp x-acto blade made all of the cuts in one pass. I also got some pre-cut letter stencils Dafont.com also had some cool stencil fonts for free. One could simply download a free stencil font, print it on cardstock, and then trim it out with an x-acto blade. I placed the stencils on my crate and masked off the sides (not shown in this pic), and then hit it with light mist coats of spray paint. Now my crate has a little more personality: I did the top of my Sandtrooper armor crate too. I used a plastic "No Parking" sign from Home Depot, cut it down to fit in the center of the lid, and sprayed over the stencils: It was a fun, easy, and cheap project. There may be die-cut stickers available, but I always worry about it peeling off, I was also able to custom size the design. This Tusken stencil won't have that problem
  8. 4 likes
    There are proper procedures for everything you have addressed and you have not seen fit to use ANY of them, Slander, verbal attacks, and Libel will NOT be tolerated on this board and as such have been deleted, I am leaving this post and responding to your why, since proper channels still have not been addressed. ALL posts slandering ANY member of the Krayt Clan WILL be deleted and after a warning the member will be removed, this has been a drama free detachment and I wont have it turned into a mud slinging match because someone didn't like a patch design, choosing a design you do not like is not incompetent handling of merch, name calling and false accusations however are a serious charge in the legion. There is no cover up other than us trying to stop someone from putting their foot to deep in their mouth to try and allow them to keep their own membership. for the record complaints and accusations need to START with command staff if you do not trust them go to legion, we DO NOT ever just start shouting on a thread with unqualified accusations. this is why thread have been deleted
  9. 4 likes
    First. you have publically accused another member of conduct unbecoming as well as theft. You had best in the next 24 hours send your evidence of all charges to the lcog . If you dont you can expect to have this circumstance turned around on you. You say this person has stolen funds, products, and other things. Prove it. Then you threaten detachment staff with charges of collusion if they in any way defend this other member. You do know ittering threats is actionable both by litigation and laws right? Again, prove it.
  10. 4 likes
    I finished the pouches last night! I received the Barge cement and the other Sam Browne button I needed for the 7th pouch and put them all together. I found that you need to go slow when putting the two sides of leather together with the cement on them. Once it's together, that's it so you need to line up your holes as perfectly as you can otherwise you're punching new holes. LOL After talking with Arturo (aka "Seeker") on his pouches for Fett and RMQ TK, he sometimes can't get the wood blocks out so he needs to put a hole in the bottom and push the wood out. To prevent me from having to do that, I didn't put the block all the way in and left enough room to pull it out with pliers. Good thing I did this and it worked! The belt straps went on next, and you can get a good idea of what I was talking about earlier. Put the top of the strap on first, finished side to finished side. I added some Barge at the top only to strengthen it rather just relying on the rivets alone. The bottom rivets were indeed tough to get in, as Turo said they would be. I couldn't get my big paw in there and neither could my daughter, so I had to get some scrap wood, drill some shallow holes at the right distance apart and far enough down to the edge of the wood and drop the male rivets into the holes so the post stuck upward. Being careful to insert that into the pouch, I was able to get them all through the holes with much difficulty. I'm not gonna lie . . . there was a lot of trial and error and it took a long time. After that, I took some watered down acrylic paint and dirtied them up a bit, though I need to do quite a bit more with some sepia paint as soon as I can find that. Otherwise they're finally finished. I also added a crease to the sides on each pouch by just folding the leather in. It looks pretty good! This was a fun project, but would I do it again? No, probably not. I hope at the very least that this helps and encourages others to make their own. *edit* Here's the back of the pouches: And here they are all dirtied up with some acrylic paint: . . . aaaaaaannd fin.
  11. 3 likes
    Hi everyone! Garbz here. I'm redoing my Dengar this year as I wrap up my Tusken(pun intended) and I decided to get the correct sidearm blaster. What does Dengar and Ponda have in common you ask? They both have a Blas-Tech DL-21. Anywho, I got a 3D printer for my birthday and I decided to design and print one. And it fits wonderfully in a Darmans Props holster: Right now I'm focusing on finishing Dengar's version but as you can see, Ponda'a handle is all that is left.. To be continued... Thanks for looking!
  12. 3 likes
    I have finally made enough progress to begin posting this... this will be a combo Asharad Hett / Sharad Hett Bucket build with the full WIP listed in Other Denizens under A'Sharad hett This is a Poorman's Kit attached to Batters Helm with visor removed, painted with rustoleum paint putty color and beige screen to cover the vents to help camoflage and issues with the cloth wraps while trooping. Original Resin cast Greeblies Fans for top section 12v micro fans they push enough to at least be felt on forehead so hopefully will push air out the vents on top. Will be adding one or two blower fans in snout as well. Tapping the helm with 8-32 1/2" screws for new Darth Hair Aluminum Greeblies and beige screens over vents to insure they stay hidden. Greeblie alignment and upgrade to DarthHair Aluminum Greeblies Leather Wrap Extending the back of the helmet with PCV Signage I extended the back of the helm this weekend with PVC Sign Material and matched the angle to maintain the correct lines of the main helmet will paint and add last pic tonight. Wired up the fans and added a blower in snout and battery pack. Right Side Left Side Back Lenses cut and set in greeblies that is all for now... More to follow... Full WIP to be Found in Other Denizens under A'sharad Hett...
  13. 3 likes
    WHAT YOU'LL NEED: Contact Cement 1/4" Antique Brass Eyelets Eyelet setter Line 20 black snaps Line 20 snap setter Snap anvil Other items: Leather or vinyl, sandpaper (or rotary tool with sanding drum!), snap knife, awl or leather punch, pencil or hobby knife to make bullet loops, hammer, rapid rivets (to attach finished bandolier to a belt), belt (try Goodwill), overstitch wheel, painters tape (or masking), acrylic paint for weathering. I also picked up this Mini Anvil which has been a really great buy and I use it a lot! Totally not needed, but it is awesome. Oh, and you'll probably want to get some Sharpie markers (brown & black) to color the cut edges of the leather or vinyl. You can also use a Line 24 snap, but keep in mind that those are larger than the Line 20s I suggest using for this project. Just saying.... Cost: $46.94 plus tax (not including 'other items'). While surfing Craigslist recently, I checked out the 'free' section and discovered that someone had just moved away and left their old brown leather sofa outside for anyone who wanted it . . . at the time, it was posted 4 days prior to me checking it out, but I decided to go see if it was still there, which it was, so I took out the knife I brought with me and sliced off the back to be used for this project (this leather is about a 2-3oz leather). I'm a template/pattern guy, and make my own using Adobe Illustrator, so I busted this out within 10 minutes and printed it out. Since the leather wasn't long enough, I had to glue 2 of them together and backed it with a small piece of leather (Barge cement). For the bullet section, my plan here is to cut out the areas that will have the Barge cement applied using this template as a mask to apply the cement, and then add cement to the back of the thin 11/16" strip that will hold the bullets and then meld the two together in those spots with a pen or pencil acting as the bullet to get the correct shape for the loops--no sewing as I don't have a machine that can handle leather. I'm heading out to Tandy tomorrow to get more cement, eyelets, and a snap setter (it's much cheaper as I get the Elite pricing than going to JoAnns or Michaels). More to come! And yes, you can download the template and use if you wish! It's the tiny little image below here...that's the template....
  14. 3 likes
    Interesting observation I just discovered... Also, can we now call this bandolier the Tusken Beer Bandolier?
  15. 3 likes
    Everything is being handled efficiently and well, the only unfortunate side effect was some people wanted reference to build this weekend and we had to take that away from them, I'm sorry but, we will be stronger for it
  16. 3 likes
    My Bith just became the first approved 501st Bith and the CRL. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:DZ_Bith
  17. 3 likes
    Just before the holidays there I had an urgent requirement for a holster for the Ion Blaster our very own Woodman had fashioned for me. A Google search revealed plenty of requests for dimensions for the holster seen in A New Hope and plenty of people who had built one for themselves (or done long since ceased runs) but no pattern appeared to be publicly available. Looking at screen grabs and other reference material and measuring my own replica blaster I formed a rough pattern. Using materials I had to hand I assembled a prototype, refining this design into the templates attached below. Hopefully these might offer some assistance to anyone who finds themselves in the same boat in future...
  18. 3 likes
    Weathering and mask now complete! I used the spray bottle with watered down acrylic paint to give it a light spritz here and there using 2 different colors (raw sienna and burnt umber) then I dry brushed it using a combination of yellow ochre, burnt umber, and black for a more mud/grease-like finish. The rust was a mix of yellow ochre, raw sienna, and then straight burnt umber. The pleated dark vinyl on the mouth was given a light dry brush of that "mud/grease" color along with the outer leather mouth wraps in spots. I'm really digging how this turned out and love the fabric wraps and how frayed and loose looking they are. I'm a proud pappa. Thanks again Dustin for the awesome mask kit!!! And some daylight photos: With a flash (below). I also painted the inside of the bloodsplitters with the rust colors.
  19. 2 likes
    Here are a couple things I made recently to bring to celebration. One is a C3PO leg to carry trade stuff when in costume and a knapsack for when I'm out of costume!
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    My wife and I were performing a trial run of our costumes at a local con this past weekend, prior to submitting for approval.....and we got on TV http://abc11.com/entertainment/comic-book-fans-flock-to-raleighs-comicon/1807290/http%3A%2F%2Fabc11.com%2F1807290%2F She is the Jawa and I am the Raider. Overall, we had a great time and got to befriend a few 501st members - we can't wait to be official members! Here are a few pictures from the con as well
  21. 2 likes
    Congrats on getting on TV!! Its always pretty cool. My hubby complains he can't see me (face) I know its me and is happy as a pig in poo
  22. 2 likes
    Troop Name: Toronto ComiCon Troop Date: March 18th, 2017 Troop Location: Toronto, ON, CA Troop Participants: DZ-41908
  23. 2 likes
    I've looked through the forums and don't see much mention of everyone's favorite bar bully Dr. Evazan. Approveable-or-not I'm currently working on this costume to go with a friend's Ponda Baba. I figured I should check and see if this has been discussed before as something that would belong in Krayt Clan and if there was anything I'm not thinking of that would limit our ability to put together a CRL for the handsome devil. Here's what I have put together for a potential CRL so far. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. Face For 501st approval: § Through the use of prosthetic appliances, the following key facial features resemble that of Dr. Evazan: § Eyebrows/ forehead, right cheek, and upper lip. § Prosthetic appliances are made from silicone, foam latex, or gelatin. § The prosthetic appliance are well blended into the skin reducing the noticeable separation between the skin around the eyes and mouth and the appliance. § The right "damaged" eye can be molded into the prosthetic eliminating the need for a contact lens (see below). Hair For 501st approval: § Hair is brown, wavy, approximately 3-4 inches in length with an unkempt appearance. § This can be achieved with the wearer’s own hair, or a wig. § The hair has the appearance of a receding hairline. Vest For 501st approval: § Made from brown suede or suede-like material. § Worn open with no visible method of closure. § Shoulders are adorned with leather cord stitching in a semi-random cross-stitch pattern. Shirt For 501st approval: § The undershirt is a beige or tan color which is not tucked into the trousers. § The front of the shirt is cut with a deep v-neck which extends to the mid/low chest area. § The collar is a military/mandarin style collar with a very wide opening at the front. § Sleeves have no visible cuff on the ends. Belt For 501st approval: § The belt is made from brown leather or leather-like material. § Buckle is curved, oval in shape and a snaps to the right of the wearer. § The holster is attached to the belt. Holster For 501st approval: § Dark-Brown leather (or leather-like material) holster worn on the right hip § A thin strand of twine is used to tie holster to the wearer's leg. Trousers For 501st approval: § Simple brown pants without noticeable pockets or adornments. Boots For 501st approval: § Black jack-boot style boots are made of leather or leather like material. § Simple with no adorning features (IE: buckles, laces) § Mid-calf in height Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described. SE-14 Blaster For 501st approval: § Blaster is an SE-14 with dual scopes Teeth For 501st approval: § False teeth used on the bottom of the wearers mouth to match visual reference. Damaged Eye For 501st approval: § Not applicable if the prosthetic has the right eye molded into it's design. § Only one contact lens worn in the right eye. § The contact lens described as a hazy-white “zombie” effect. § This style of contact lens may be worn, if desired. § While encouraged to complete the look of this character, the contact lens requirement will be waived for 501st acceptance, if the applicant cannot wear contact lenses for health related reasons. § All persons utilizing contact lenses are encouraged to first see their optometrist for a fitting.
  24. 2 likes
    Troop name : Zydeco Marathon Troop date; March 12th 2017 Troop location : Lafayette, LA, USA Troop Participants: DZ-10008
  25. 2 likes
    Troop name : Pop Life Experience Troop date; March 12th 2017 Troop location : Bangkok Thailand Troop Participants: DZ-60815
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    Hey all, I decided to start this thread and post up all of the completed item's that I have crafted for my Tusken Build. Please share your comments, and feel free to ask any questions regarding my build. Overall Build Standing - Almost there! lol! Mask/Helmet - I purchased the Darth Hair kit off of his Etsy Store. I utilized most of the kit but substituted the following items/materials Duck Cloth - I purchased from Jo Anne's Fabric - The duck cloth from Jo Anne's is slightly heavier and I felt it presented better - All duck cloth was dyed with Black Tea and weathered with pastels and graphite powder. Leather Strips - Purchased off of amazon.com - The leather from amazon was a heavier weight and came pre-dyed. Neck Wrap - Utilized left over duck cloth from helmet and added 3 long 2" strips to one shorter 6" strip. I simply wrap around my neck and tuck. Breather Can - I purchased a can from Berzerker, installed armature wire and weathered with sand paper and various acrylic paints. Bandoliers - Made my own waist bandolier using Arcturus' Pattern and tan vinyl leather. I also purchased an authentic British 1903 Bandolier off of Ebay. Robes - I am working with a friend who is a costumer/tailor to sew up the robes. Material will be Monk's Cloth for Outer Robes, and Muslin for Inner Robes. Material has been ordered. Waist Sash - Costumer will help me make this as well. Gloves/Arm Wraps - Bought canvas gloves from Harbor Freight and dyed with Black Tea. Bought a long sleeve tshirt and wrapped up to elbows with duck cloth. I plan to cut the sleeves off and figure out a comfortable way to wrap past my elbows. Any good ideas for that? Boots/Leg Wraps - Bought $15 Rain Boots off of amazon.com and wrapped with left over duck cloth from helmet. Gaffi Stick - I utilized HappyTrooper's Gaffi Build (Thanks dude!) and made my own. Thanks to all of the users here on the forums for all of the help, I really couldn't have done any of it without your helpful tutorials and positive insight - THANK YOU!
  27. 2 likes
    Muni, that was to be corrected. There was no fur on any of the Jawa's in the movies. We did take that line out, there must of been a Droids fault.
  28. 2 likes
    Mmmm.... a pillage pilsner sounds good.
  29. 2 likes
    Hi! I'm working on a Tessek costume too (: I'm going to modify the outrobe because LMO doesn't approve the color.
  30. 2 likes
    After the approval of my Jawa costume in November 2013 and probably 16 missions, I have to rework my mask. It has several "weak spots" and I have not been happy with it for quite some time now. So I am looking for inspiration and tips again, like back then when I built my costume originally. As I've been struggling with this "dilemma" for quite some time now, procrastinating and getting frustrating without really getting something done, I thought I'd start this topic to "sob my heart out" and pushing myself in front of audience, sort of. So PLEASE EXCUSE sharing my thoughts and long remarks. Besides the technical problems (like recurring loose connections of the cut flashlights that I use and consuming too much energy) and "physical" / material ones (like pieces of foam on the inside that drops when I sweat a lot), I also find it hard to breath under the mask and the veil sometimes. I get slight breathlessness, not really panic but a prestage of it, especially when I get out of breath at the "blast-a-trooper" for example or taking too many steps in the heat... and I am also hoping to improve sight / visibility ( I already tried different sorts of fabric). And it annoys me that getting my mask + veil off and on again for "bucket-off-photos" takes me much longer than the armoured troopers with their buckets, fumbling around with the ribbons of the veil and the buckle of the mask at the back of my head (I can remove the veil from the mask which I find helpful for washing it). Therefore I am thinking about a balaclava version instead of the veil (which can be seen on some photos and under certain lightning conditions). also inspired by JawaJaki's postings recently. But first I have to find a suitable mask base, I guess. However, my boyfriend came up with the idea of attaching LEDs to a piece of fabric, maybe adding a solid piece around the nose to cover it's shape. This idead is new to me, I have to think about it. I prefer my yellow "eyes" shown (instead of hidden under the veil), by the way. Am I the only one buying various supplies and items, hoping they might work but they end up "useless" or not practicable in a "trial and error" sense? Often, you only know after trying, right? It's not very economical, though. I really enjoy being a Jawa and the reactions to my costume (which are much "stronger" than with my Admiral Daala face-showing costume, which I also like in a different way, it makes me feel rather "respectful" and I can help out at the booth), but all the difficulties with my mask "tempered delight" recently and frustrate me, unfortunately.
  31. 2 likes
    so i figured it's about time to make some accessories for my tusken, so i'm working on a rifle to start. a 3d print and a trip to the plumbing dept later:
  32. 2 likes
    I have modelled a rebreather to 3D print, for a couple of tuskens in our Vectis Remnant. I am pretty happy with accuracy of the dimensions - a couple of areas are tweaked to help it print better. I have a Brasso tin in hand - so confident those measurements are right, I had to guesstimate the flared nut. I have made a couple of filed with 5mm or 6mm hole in the "Nut" but can alter that for whatever tubing/bar we end up using. How does it look so far? Image 1. Brasso Tin and Cap. Image 2. Flare Nuts (5mm and 6mm holes). Image3. 2 Halves - how I would print one Rebreather (image shows both hole sizes - would print 2x same size).
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  34. 2 likes
    also, everyone here please no personal rebuttals to the KC members posting this slander, ALL the posts even with varying members came from the same IP address so some accounts were hacked, do not consider the people posting to be guilty until proper investigations have happened also a reason to be removing suspicious posts
  35. 2 likes
    Just protecting our members and our board, sometimes a full shut down is easier to contain while we are looking into issues
  36. 2 likes
    My Jawa has just been cleared by the Rebel Legion and I have just put in for UKG 501st clearance!
  37. 2 likes
    With new photos being available showing us the Hood is tired around the back making it the wrap around effect using the same fabric it is made of. The CRL for Jawa is also asking for wrap around. I have attached one of my current hoods with some left over fabric. In the first photo you can see the tie and the fabric. I did make the ties quite long at around 35 inches ...that maybe a bit over kill but I haven't trooped in it yet and I can always shorten later. I choose the side of the fabric to make it look the frayed and at the same time I made sure it wouldn't fray anymore. Remember the movie Jawa's where not made to be worn and last for a few years of wear and tear. Here is the end result, I did try it on, it does look good but not as easy to tie up like the rope........ This is to help those that have already made theirs or currently making one, its really easy and straight forward. You can simply follow the pattern of the hood and then attach the two long strips as you would if it was the ties. This is less wastage.
  38. 2 likes
    If you are planning to use your costume to join the 501st Legion and/or get your DZ designation, then it must be screen accurate. Any variations other than what is seen on screen will not be considered for submission. The 501st is not allowing for the "nature" of the costume to be taken into consideration. This is being considered "custom" and is not allowed. Do yourself a favor before submitting your photos and make sure your costume is based on an actual character seen on screen.
  39. 1 like
    Forum name: knightwhosaysutinni TK ID: 18557 Event Name: University of Louisville RaiseRed Dance Marathon Event Date: 02/25/2017 Jawa
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    Submitted my pictures for approval today. Crossing my fingers! http://imgur.com/a/IoRLO UTINI!
  41. 1 like
    Name : Mitthrawnuruodo TKID: DZ-13525 Event: ButCon 2017 Date : 2/11/17 Costume : Bith Musician
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    First event: Texas Comicon 20 Jun 2014. I'm the Tusken. 0N6B4293 by TK9157, on Flickr - Paul (DZ 27949)
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    I'm still working on the mask.. mostly I need to find a balaclava that fits it right. I'm also rebuilding another mask for Toronto ComicCon.. as I have so many tweaks I'd like to do.. and well lets face it.. I have a zillion projects on the go.. most importantly my MSE-6 Droid build.. lol..
  44. 1 like
    Thanks Kristopher! @FantasticDamage, you might like this tutorial too...very easy to make!
  45. 1 like
    To mount the eyes straight on a Hockeymaske, I have built with Worbla a construction. So you can balance the oblique in the mask and Fix the Eyes on it. Lg Stefan
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    Several months later, I have a new version of mask and veil, thanks to the technical help and good ideas of my boyfriend. The new mask is a lighter carnival mask which I cut underneath the nose. I added new straps and a velcro closure. The lights are single leds in metal holders so I can change them if necessary. We had to enforce the holders with sugru. The wires have little plugs at the end, as the battery packs which I wear now in a little fabric bag that is attached on the inside of my robe, slightly above my waist. The new fabric for veil is speakers cloth which provides slightly more view and air. The only downside of it is that is easily shows marks of deterioration if something gets stuck like velcro or plugs. The veil-fabric is attached to the mask with three little press buttons. My "eyes" are yellow table tennis balls cut in half, reinforced with a yellow plastic disc at the back / bottom made of a plastic scraper for car windscreens. There is also an orange reflector cap / lid for leds glued on. The eyes are attached to the top / outside of the veil by velcro and to the led by a "funnel" which is plugged in in the cap / lid. I wear a balaclava underneath which provides more stability to the mask, and less veil fabric is needed. It also "holds together" my hair better than before. My first troop with the new construction was successful, and I am going to enjoy trooping now more again which I am very happy about! Still, it takes me longer to assemble and rearrange it in contrast to putting on or off a bucket, but several other problems are solved or improved.
  48. 1 like
    I have some Available if you like. Heres my FB Group page https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheBlockadeRunnerSupply Find me here and Send me a PM.
  49. 1 like
    DZ90112 ready to bring on the mayhem!!! just got approved!
  50. 1 like
    Ok in order to cut down on the size and the cost I used different parts saved almost $8 I was using 2 reflectors per eye stalk to get the color i wanted that's $8 So I removed 1 from each with a total savings of $4 with a over all height savings of 1/4 " But to get the color I want I needed a (for lack of a better word ) filter so I used a pill bottle bottom which so happens to be the perfect size and it's free I was using a PVC plumbing fixture that was $1.66 each x2 but i found one I could use for $0.25 for both eye stalks so that's 12.5 cents each So now the over all height will be. 3/4 tall That's as short as I can make it