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Showing most liked content since 05/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 likes
    Ok, so it's been a long time in the works now but here it is. I should state that I don't have any insight into the screen accuracy of the OT inner robe beyond screen shots and all the behind the scenes shots everyone else has. This is just my interpretation of the robe and what I did for the couple that I've made. I wanted to share it to help folks out that were as lost as I was starting out with very little to go on. Please, by all means, feel free to suggest revisions and changes. I would love for this to be an open-project, open source thing - free for all to use. Huge thanks to @pigelectric for her proofreading and revision help!! Without further ado.. HERE's the link.
  2. 4 likes
    Greetings Fellow Denizens, Here's my first progress post on the forums. I've been searching, researching, bookmarking the heck out of these forums to learn how to build a Tusken costume. These forums have been extremely helpful. While I'm glad that I'm almost done with my outfit, part of me feels sad that the project is ending. Guess I'll need to choose my next build soon For my helmet, I went with the Darth Hair kit with aluminum parts. Here's a pic of the components: The first thing that I did was buy some leather dye and dye the snout strips. I went with Eco-Flo in Bison Brown and topped off with Eco-Flo Satin purchased from amazon.com. I didn't know anything about leather dying, this video helped me. I applied it with a craft sponge. I also put a cote of leather protection in a satin finish. After it was dyed and dried, I bent the leather back and forth until my hands were sore, that gave it a worn appearance, and made it a little more pliable. I followed Darth Hair's videos: part 1 and part 2 for drilling out the eyes, blood spitters, nose, and head spikes. I did stop following at the 7 minute mark on part 2 when he started applying the wraps. I think his videos are more of a rough guideline and also to show how quickly one can build his mask. You don't need to follow his instructions to the "T". Straying from the video, and learning from these forums, I applied some leather around the eyes and blood spitters: All that was left was to apply the wraps. I did not use Darth Hair's supplied fabric. I had a huge swath of duck cloth from Joann's that I purchased for my boot/arm wraps. To keep things consistent, I used that. I pre-washed the entire sheet of duck cloth, and then ripped a ton of strips ov various widths, between 1 inches and 3 inches. So, the duck cloth was pre-washed, dried on high heat, then ripped into strips lengthwise at various widths. I used the Rit Dye washing machine method using 1 bottle of taupe and 1 box of pearl gray. I really like the results. I followed Rit's instructions (including the 1 cup of salt) on how to dye with the washing machine. It was pretty easy. After dyeing, I threw all of the strips on the dryer and they got nice and frayed. While the strips dried, I ran an empty wash cycle with bleach just to clean out any dye. I began applying the larger strips first, just to get coverage. No particular pattern, just random. I used a combination of hot glue and E6000 (a tip I picked up on these forums). I applied smaller strips on top to try to show variation in the strip widths. Finally, I applied some weathering. I have a jar of powdered graphite that I use for faux gunmetal finishing on my prop weapons. I tried sprinkling some graphite powder on a test strip, and liked the results. I used a fat brush loaded with graphite powder and sprinkled it along the frayed edges. I did not touch the brush to the strips, I just let the powder fall off in random areas. If it was too heavy, I blew some off. After that, I just rubbed it in with my fingers. It gave it a nice dull gray dirty appearance. I used the same technique with a brown artist's pastel. I shaved off a bunch of pastel using the back side of an xacto blade to produce a fine powder. I used the same brush dabbing technique, just letting some powder fall and then rubbing it in. I did not use much brown. Looking at reference photos, I can't see much brown, the gray/black is the prominent "dirt" color. I used the brown sparingly just to give it a little depth. Finishing products: I kept Darth Hair's helmet liner. I secured it with industrial velcro. Because the face pieces are aluminum (and there's a pound of leather on the snout), the mask is very front-heavy. I know many of you are not fans of the hard hat helmet liners, but this actually works and keeps the helmet secure. I see now why a few of you opt for a skateboard-type helmet. Probably more comfortable and secure. Anyways, I don't mind this hard hat liner, it is keeping things in place, and doesn't hurt my head. In the pic below, you can see I made a mistake with the eyes on the initial drill. The side eye vents are supposed to be offset, I had them even. No biggie, can't see the holes. I folded the strips inside the helmet randomly. No loose hanging strips, there is an "edge" on the bottom of the helmet. I ran some 220 grit sandpaper around the snout to rough it up. The only thing I have left is my sash, also waiting on some bandoliers. The inner and outer robes, boots, arms, and breather are all about done. Thanks for reading and thank you all for the helpful posts. Without them, I could never have completed this kit.
  3. 3 likes
    To gain Krayt Clan Detachment member access, please post your request here. You must have a 501st approved denizen costume to become a member. Please include in your post a link to your 501st profile. The Detachment Membership Officer, the Detachment Executive Officer and the Detachment Leader in most cases will evaluate requests within 72 hours. Once approved, your post will be edited to reflect your change in status. PLEASE DON'T POST IN BOTH TOPICS(If you want KC access you will automatically get 501st access too, no need to post twice!)
  4. 3 likes
    Hi all! I just wanted to let you all know that I have some new prints available as well as a few older ones (like the baby Bantha and Tusken) up on my Etsy store. Let me know if you have any questions or interest (or you can just buy from the store)! Thanks! ~Jim P.S. Yes, I did illustrate these!
  5. 3 likes
    So this will seem odd but the first photos of the spear being built are of my MK2 spear point while the later photos are of the completed gaffi has my MK1 spear on it. So that is why it looks a little off. The spear is designed to slide onto a 1/4" steel rod and both the spear and the pineapple slot into a 1" PVC pipe (2 feet long). All seems are super glued and filled with Bondo spot and glazing putty. I did an auto primer coat followed by a mix of browns and blacks followed by a glossy clear coat. This has not been weathered yet. I'm thinking about doing a short run on here in a month or so so keep your eyes peeled if your interested. ...and now pictures: 20170325_151451 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170307_120756 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170307_122317 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170314_123619 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_110518 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_110608 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_110800 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_111029 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_111711 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_111738 by bsmonkey, on Flickr ...and this is the "con" spear tip. Both tips will need the edges sanded down a little so it will sit snug in the chamber. It is totally possible to do this so that the points are interchangeable. 20170325_113551 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_114827 by bsmonkey, on Flickr The holes for the steel rod are a tad too tight so they need to get opened up a bit with a quarter inch bit. 20170325_125257 by bsmonkey, on Flickr Make sure the steel rod doesn't go all of the way into the square chamber for the spear tips. 20170325_125904 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_125925 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170325_125942 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170314_123931 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170307_122951 by bsmonkey, on Flickr instructions_nosale by bsmonkey, on Flickr compair by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170308_232045 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170314_122650 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170314_122903 by bsmonkey, on Flickr 20170314_122726 by bsmonkey, on Flickr Let me know what you think!
  6. 3 likes
    Thanks for the comments everyone! And M.J., the 'spats' idea is more of what my plan is. Just couldn't think of the best word to describe them. My thought is to basically create a full cover, wrapping around the back of the calf and the bottom of the shoe. Might essentially create a calf out of something like craft foam that the fabric strips can be adhered to, that would simply have Velcro attachments in the back. I envision this as a 2-piece cover...the foot and the calf. It could be wrapped around virtually any kind of shoe that you wish to wear for comfort. Here's a quick mock-up of the concept:
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    Just stunning work Mars. I love that the wrappings are so close to the screen shots. That kind of attention to detail is so inspiring to see. More than anything, i'm very intrigued as to how you even conceived the mask base shape. Being able to visualize the substructure for something to support all the pieces that ultimately create something as close to "A" as you have is just amazing. Do you have any suggestions or advice for someone looking to do the same thing? I'm thinking i may take a shot out of a full scratch build on the mask as you have. Not 100% sure on that one just yet. Still looking at options.
  8. 3 likes
    I just stumbled upon these photos on the OriginalStormtrooper Facebook photo section from 2011, Andrew Ainsworth talks about who built the masks and some details about how they were built. Pretty interesting stuff! He says he thinks that they made 12 of them back then, we've only seen 4 so far...I wonder what happened to the rest of them? https://www.facebook.com/OriginalStormtrooper/photos/pb.166404663370385.-2207520000.1429570170./200144083329776/?type=3&theater
  9. 3 likes
    I use a sculpt from the inside of a Vader mask, and only a 3/4 wrap.....I didn't buy a kit that just seemed the proper way......and just had my husband import the Peter diamond photograph into lightwave with the human eye as a measuring standard.......and 3D render the pieces which we then carved out of wood and cast..... Maybe everyone when they are doing research are spending to much time looking at vendors and other 501st Tuskens and not watching the movie enough.... As awesome as the CRL's are The Final word is SCREEN accurate Maybe we should watch the movies more P.s. The Peter Diamond shot does look like a 3/4 mask that either has a brace or just stiff wraps causing them to stand and look full, just my 2 cents P.p.s entertainingly everything I said is true about the Tuskens I make but not my own I had someone bring me face pieces and the face plate, and a hard hat to learn........but I'm upgrading to my own stuff soon And if I remember correctly NONE of the screen used Tuskens masks came back from the desert, just a backup one or two that are in sad sorry shape.........they just didn't care to ship costumes back on a new movie they didn't know if anyone would watch
  10. 2 likes
    Hi Folks, Just wanted to say a huge thank you to this community for helping me with my Tusken Raider, i have read so many threads and got some great help & advice from everyone, i just wanted to let you know that i got my Tusken clearance yesterday, so i can now officially play in the sand pit with the rest of my Tusken brothers and sisters. Once again Thank you for all the help, i hope i can give something back to help others as you have all helped me. Ian ...
  11. 2 likes
    Here it is weathered and ready to go. I did change put the eye stalks and blood spittera for a different model that Corey Brandt created. Corey also makes the head piece. Im working on printing the head pieces in aluminum pla i stead of silver plastic.
  12. 2 likes
    it turned out the next morning, after drying completely. the fabric was barely darker than when i started. so i made up a new coffee bath, this time with a little more coffee. soaked the wraps for 3 hours and now they look great. even dry.
  13. 2 likes
    Troop Name: FEDCON 26 Troop Date: June 04, 2017 Troop Location: Bonn, Germany Troop Participants: DZ-82524 Natrix as Tusken Raider (the one on the left)
  14. 2 likes
    Forum Name: Myna Sturnidae TKID: DZ-9572 Event: Niagara Falls Comic Con Date: 06/02/2017 Costume: Tusken Raider
  15. 2 likes
    5/21/17 - Harrisburg Comic Con Forum: Caileen Tauren DZ83038 Costume Trader Ja'a the Jawa at his trading post!
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    The first time I tried on the whole Jawa costume for approval pics, I was told I needed to do an action shot and my mind went completely blank and this was the result. Someone said it would be funny to put it to cantina music so a few minutes in photoshop and here we go. Just some random silliness!
  17. 2 likes
    Forum: Rainy TKID: 17190 Costume: Jawa Event: Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure Date: 06/04/17
  18. 2 likes
    Event Name: RPC CologneEvent Location: Cologne GermanyEvent Date: 27/05/2017Costume: JAWA ID: DZ-20780
  19. 2 likes
    Hi Lorelei- I can translate for you. I assume you know that 3D printing (in this case) involves melting a plastic filament and building up the printed object one layer at a time. 1) "0.1mm" is the height of each layer of plastic filament that is laid down. In general, smaller (less thick) layer heights *can* give better detail and better bonding strength between layers, although there are MANY factors which lend to detail and strength -- not just layer height. They are probably letting you know this to give an indication of possible resolution/detail. 2) "infill of 30%" is telling you how solid the piece is. You can probably imagine that the piece is not hollow and does have some plastic on the inside. This is called infill. 100% would be solid. 0% would be hollow. 30% would mean 30% plastic and 70% air. The 30% of plastic would typically be laid down as a cross-hatch pattern or something similar. 30% is pretty solid if the cross-hatch pattern is used. It keeps the finished product lighter, uses less material, shorter time to print, and less chance of warping during print, all the while providing the model with enough strength to be handled and hold up to mild abuse. 3) "PLA" is the type of plastic used. Polylactic Acid is what you can Google if you want all the gory details on the chemistry. It is very popular in 3D printing due to cost, has less of a tendency to warp during printing, good print bed adhesion during printing, less smell when it's melted during printing, easy to glue, file, fill, sand, paint, etc. A couple of other examples of plastic types used to print are ABS and Nylon. I use PLA almost exclusively now because it has improved so much in the past couple of years. It's also biodegradable and is often made from renewable material. Hope that helps. I think another factor worth considering is to ask what the wall thickness and number of wall layers are. Generally, 3 layers is good. Appropriate thickness depends a bit on the model and the material used (in this case PLA). Cheers! Stro
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    DZ32327, aka H'arrpo, at Harrisburg Comic Con, Harrisburg PA on 5/20/17 Booping people on the nose! And giving Princess Leia a green glitter heart for Mental Health Awareness Month
  22. 2 likes
    About what parts were used in and out of the movie = the Tusken has a lot of grey area points. As I found, if you are doing a Stormtrooper, Vader, Fett etc = these characters are normally 99.9% accurate in regards to the CRL with little room for debate. In trying to be as accurate as possible to a movie Tusken I found more questions than answers and I can only suggest that sticking to the CRL will get you 501st approved. I do encourage you to research as I did (it is a lot of fun anyway) but to make changes against the CRL you need 3 separate visual references usually..... and this can be hard to find. Especially with limited screen time and production shots = There may only be that one known picture of detail that is different to the CRL. Just make sure you run anything you believe to be 'in question' by your GML. And definitely do chase down any inaccuracies or variations to the CRL. That is how these costumes get 100% movie accurate in the end Have fun
  23. 2 likes
    75% Forest Brown, 15% Mars Black, and 10% Crimson. I got all the paints at a local Michael's for cheap. EDIT: I did different blends of these three colors for different layers, that is just the combo i used for the bulk of it. Also, keep in mind that what color your spray on will be much lighter when dry unless you make the water and paint mixture very dark. It can be scary when you spray it on and it looks super dark.
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    Wow! Great work! Your attention to detail is outstanding. Tooth is nice and low, tooth grooves are uneven like the screen used masks, flared ends on the blood spitters, grey inner mouth leather, pleats look great, outer mouth leather is perfect, head wraps are dead on. Amazing! This is the most believable Tusken Raider mask that I've ever seen anybody make on this forum. It's inspiring to see people care about screen accuracy, Great job MarsVoyager! I've been stuck on modifying my Tom Spina totokia war club but when I'm done I'm going to start back up on my mask and hopefully finish it in the next few months.
  26. 2 likes
    Head en face Thanks jtechlove, glad you liked it. And here is another pic.
  27. 2 likes
    Greetings Members, I was asked recently to Weather a members Vinyl Bandolier. I took photos and hope this helps other members This is a New Bandolier made of Vinyl Brought from a supplier I used fine grade of sand paper, White and burnt seiner colour paints, Dry brush. The New Bandolier next to the one I weathered. I sanded the top layer, using a "very" fine grade of sand paper this took the shine and made it look smokey. (sand Paper was the Black grade, be careful you don't damage the Vinyl with a harsh one, leaving scratchers and lines) Note Dont forget not to miss the brass look alike pins make them look dull. Use only small amounts of paint on your brush, mix both together testing out the shade. I started with the Corner of the bottom to test out colours, then brushed around the edgers of the flap as to give the elusion of being rubbed and warned down. Don't be afraid to use your fingers to rub around or rub off. Always add slowly then build up, you can always add, you can't take away. Make sure you sand the strap to give it the consistency of the weathering. In this Case I used Browns, as the Bandolier was dark Brown. For references look at photos from the movie Bandoliers and how they have been weathered and the colours. I notice the black had the sandy colour edgers, even testing out your colours on a scrap piece of Vinyl so your happy with the match. LEATHER Bandoleers NEW If you have purchased a NEW Bandoleer the Leather hasn't been tan/oiled as yet. Strip the leather first, and give it a sanding, then place a coat of Raven Oil. Showing you the different stagers, I would then use the dry brush to add tones and age, same technic as the Vinyl shown above.
  28. 2 likes
    True, It would be nice if folks would use actual screen references more for their costume builds versus other individual costumes. As a GML, I sometimes get comments like, "this person's costume was approved with this and that. Why can't mine?" As for the Tusken helmet and that image you showed, the reality is that the helmets varied. Some of the on-screen Tuskens had more of a "helmet" like appearance versus others. For example the following image.
  29. 1 like
    Welcome to the sandbox!
  30. 1 like
    Looking very good! Great job!
  31. 1 like
    Forum: GideonswakeTKID: DZ-50405Event: Bowling for Kids' SakeDate: 06/10/ 2017Costume: Tusken Raider
  32. 1 like
    Troop Name: Warner Robins Derby Demons vs. Ft. Stewart Roller Derby Troop Date: June 10, 2017 Troop Location: Gray, GA, USA Troop Participants: DZ-26123 (Jawa)
  33. 1 like
    The Monks cloth you have show is correct, as that's what i used and it worked out fine, what i did as you mentioned was to lay two 4 yard pieces side by side and sew so far up the center seam and just fold the other halves over the front if that makes sense?, but i made my outer robes 80 inches wide. what i did was measure 40 inches on either piece of monks cloth and sewed the 2 halves together where i had measured to and cut off the excess and once the back was sewn i sewed it down both sides where the arms slits would be and then turned the whole thing inside out so you wouldn't see the seam., after that it was just a case of weathering it and cutting to length so that i didn't have too much drag on the ground as it's hazardous at troops if someone stands on your robes and pulls you back. let me know if you need pictures taken and i will happily post them up or PM you with what i mean. Ian ...
  34. 1 like
    The cause of dinosaur extinction. DZ-73752 and DZ-28537. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
  35. 1 like
    Forum Name: TrooperPX TKID: DZ-9215 Event: Niagara Falls Comic Con Date: 06/02/2017 Costume: Tusken Raider Photo by Kevin Daniel.
  36. 1 like
    Welcome to the sandbox!!!
  37. 1 like
    We used an old pair of ugg boots with material glued to them. But they were old and the sole broke up. Didn't have an alternative pair laying around & Another member had the idea of a wraped cover. It prompted an idea of using Santa boot covers. And we had some used ones from santa con NYC. Well, they turned out pretty good. Not finished but wanted to share. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  38. 1 like
    Lorelei, your correct. People have to remember these boots are made for a film only been warn once, I must also point out comfort and support, we are all volunteers and can be on our feet for hours walking for a long length of time, make sure which ever foot wear you choose, it is comfortable and will support your feet, knees, hips and back.
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    Welcome to the sandbox!
  40. 1 like
    Forum Name: R2Bman TKID: 31824 Event Name: Megacon 2017 Orlando Event Date: 5/26/2017 Costume: Wrgath ANH Male Tusken
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    going to give this idea a try with some old Santa boot covers.
  42. 1 like
    Hello and welcome to Krayt Clan.
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    Congrats on both accounts!
  44. 1 like
    Hi ya Rob and Welcome! Good luck with your build
  45. 1 like
    Hello- I have some clarification questions regarding the topic of Level 2 for the ANH Tusken Male. 1) So the difference between Level 1 and 2 certification for the ANH Tusken male is, for Level 2, duplicating the bandoliers seen in the Luke fight scene and nothing additional? (btw- it looks like maybe the CRL should read "fight" instead of "flight"...) 2) When submitting, does a request for Level 2 certification have to be explicitly made to the GML? 3) What is the purpose of the distinction of Levels? In other words, does being a "Level 1" exclude participation in certain cases? Cheers!
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    More getting things dirty. I got in trouble from the wife for using spray paint in the house...
  48. 1 like
    Good work MarsVoyager! I think the Silvo tin is probably it. The trick is finding one of those vintage cans...probably in a UK vintage collectables shop. I'm interested to see what it'll look like when you'er done!
  49. 1 like
    Made some progess on my "Kinder Tusken" mask, check it out: Coming along, slowly but surely. Still need to tighten up the fabric and cut out the eye hole and cover the hole with black cloth. And I need to concoct the hardware on either side where the rods meet at the bottom. Got an idea on how to do that... All in all not too bad. Bill
  50. 1 like
    That's what I first thought of... http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/articles/news/news.html?in_article_id=509693&in_page_id=1770 Whatever it is... it's pretty ... =Lamar=